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Out of Reality, Kopold and Sabovcik new route attempt on Great Trango Towe
14/09/2012 - Alpinism
Out of Reality, Kopold and Sabovcik new route attempt on Great Trango Towe
This August the Slovak climbers Dodo Kopold and Michal Sabovcik forged a new line up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower (6286m), Karakorum. Their "Out of Reality" ends on the shoulder circa 400m below the summit.
Forest Gump, new rock climb by Krajnc and Lindic up Rocchetta Alta, Dolomites
14/09/2012 - Alpinism
Forest Gump, new rock climb by Krajnc and Lindic up Rocchetta Alta, Dolomites
This summer Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindic made the first ascent of Forest Gump (VIII+, 650m), a new rock climb up the North Face of Rocchetta Alta, Bosconero, Dolomites.
Matteo Gambaro climbs Abysse 9a at the Gorges du Loup
13/09/2012 - Climbing
Matteo Gambaro climbs Abysse 9a at the Gorges du Loup
On 12/09/2012 the Gorges du Loup in France Matteo Gambaro has climbed his first 9a, Abyss.
Kilian Fischhuber big climbs down under
12/09/2012 - Climbing
Kilian Fischhuber big climbs down under
In Australia Kilian Fischhuber has made the first ascent of Southern Delight 8c+ at the Taipan Wall, the Grampians.
Via Leila Cason de Formin is a variation to Leber Kenedi
12/09/2012 - Alpinism
Via Leila Cason de Formin is a variation to Leber Kenedi
Errata: contrary to what we published previously, Via Leila on Cima Cason de Formin (Croda da Lago, Dolomites) is not a new route but a lower variation (5 pitches) to Via Leber Kenedi first ascended in 1990 by Federico Michielli and Michele Da Pozzo.
Colonne d'Ercole, new climb up Punta Tissi in Civetta by Baù, Beber and Tondini
12/09/2012 - Alpinism
Colonne d'Ercole, new climb up Punta Tissi in Civetta by Baù, Beber and Tondini
On 7 - 8 September 2012 Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini made the first free ascent of Colonne d'Ercole (1200m, max IX, obl. VIII+) up Punta Tissi on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites, the great new route they established between 2009 and 2012.
Alien, new route on Presolana by Codazzi and Natali
11/09/2012 - Climbing
Alien, new route on Presolana by Codazzi and Natali
On 11/08/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Alien (7a+, 150m), a new climb up the South Face of Presolana Centrale.
Via Leila, new rock climb on Cason de Formin, Dolomites
10/09/2012 - Climbing
Via Leila, new rock climb on Cason de Formin, Dolomites
Cortina Mountain Guida Enrico Maioni presents Via Leila, a new climb up Cason de Formin in the Dolomites first ascended by Aldo Vascellari, Federico Zanettin and Giovanni Zanettin.
Ogre South Face first ascent by Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster
06/09/2012 - Alpinism
Ogre South Face first ascent by Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster
American alpinists Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster have made the third ascent of Ogre (Baintha Brakk) 7,285m in Karakorum via a new route up the South Face.
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
06/09/2012 - Interviews
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
Maurizio Oviglia interviews Dogan Palut, one of the most talented and famous climbers in Turkey.
A Zillertal climbing holiday at home with Gerhard Hörhager for Mauro Calibani & friends
04/09/2012 - Climbing
A Zillertal climbing holiday at home with Gerhard Hörhager for Mauro Calibani & friends
Mauro Calibani recounts his holiday with family and friends at the home of Gerhard Hörhager, in Austria's Zillertal rock paradise. A step back into climbing history, in the footsteps of great Hörhager and his Graceland 8b and Ganja 8a+ trad, two emblematic testpieces first ascended by this strong climber in...
Bulgarians climb new 5000m peaks in Pakistan’s Khane Valley
03/09/2012 - Alpinism
Bulgarians climb new 5000m peaks in Pakistan’s Khane Valley
In August 2012 a Bulgarian expedition comprised of Doychin Boyanov, Tervel Kerelov, Michail Michailov and Nikolay Petkov made the first ascents of Levski Peak (5733m) and Grey Tower (5435m) in the Khane Valley, Pakistan.
Sasha DiGiulian and Anna Stöhr win Arco Rock Legends 2012
01/09/2012 - Events
Sasha DiGiulian and Anna Stöhr win Arco Rock Legends 2012
On Friday 31/08/2012 during the VII edition of the Arco Rock Legends Sasha DiGiulian won the Salewa Rock Award, while Anna Stöhr received the La Sportiva Competition Award. Stefan Glowacz was awarded with the Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil prize.
Pilastro Parmenide, new route up Cima dell'Auta
29/08/2012 - Alpinism
Pilastro Parmenide, new route up Cima dell'Auta
On 1 -2/08/2012 Italian climbers Giorgio Travaglia and Stefano Valsecchi made the first ascent of Pilastro Parmenide (500m VI + A3+ + 100m of grade II) up the South Face of Cima dell'Auta orientale (Marmolada, Dolomites). The route was started by Travaglia and others in 2010.
New free climbs on Baffin Island
27/08/2012 - Alpinism
New free climbs on Baffin Island
In June and July 2012 a strong team of international climbers comprised of Hansjörg Auer, Riky Felderer, Ben Lepesant, Matteo Mocellin, William Peterson, Eneko Pou and Iker Pou forged 4 new free climbs on Baffin Island’s East Coast, including The Door 8b.
150th anniversary of Picco Glorioso - Monte Disgrazia
22/08/2012 - Alpinism
150th anniversary of Picco Glorioso - Monte Disgrazia
The commemoration of the first attempt to climb to the summit of Monte Disgrazia, which started a series of events aimed at celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first ascent to the summit of this great mountain located between Valmalenco and Valmasino. Michele Comi has the story.

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