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Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years old. Both were expert alpinists. Iannilli was definitely one of...
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane and Mauro Corona.
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl victorious in Villars
18/07/2016 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl victorious in Villars
The second stage of IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Villars, Switzerland last weekend and was won by Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl. The fourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Marcin Dzienski of Poland and Anouck Jaubert of France.
Only one climbing God: the grade!
14/07/2016 - Climbing
Only one climbing God: the grade!
Motivated by debates on facebook, the Italian climber and photographer Riky Felderer shares his point of view about an issue that knows no end: climbing grades.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
09/07/2016 - Alpinism
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Voie Petit, the 450m 8b multi-pitch climb on Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc first ascended in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and freed in 2005 by Alexander Huber.
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
02/07/2016 - Alpinism
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
Italian mountain guide Alberto De Giuli introduces Traumschiff, the classic multi-pitch sport climb established in 1986 by Simon Demetz and Karl Vinatzer up the Traumpfeiler face at Cansla, Meisules dla Biesces, Dolomites.
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham have just made the first ascent of the beautiful NW Ridge of Gangstang (6162m) in the Himachal Pradesh Himalaya. They reached the summit on the 9th June and descended to base camp the next day completing a five day round trip.
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
On Saturday, 11/06/2016 Enrico Rosso, Pietro Sella and Antonio Zavattarelli made the first ascent of Mindfulness, a new climb up Rumi Mallku (5900m), Cordillera Real, Bolivian Andes. A few days earlier, the 'Illampu 2016' expedition members teamed up with Davide Vitale to make the first repeat of the SW Ridge...
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
29/06/2016 - Alpinism
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
Marco Bozzetta introduces Occhi d’acqua (7b, 210m), a new multi-pitch rock climb established ground-up in September 2015 together with Costante Carpella up the south face of Torre del Formenton, Val Fredda, Dolomiti. Dolomites.
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
28/06/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have climbed Golden Shower (8b+, 150m), the multi-pitch route freed by Stefan Glowacz in 2012 in Verdon Gorge, France. Their ascent took place shortly after that of the Austrians Tobias Bitschnau and Christoph Schranz.
Maybe, chasing the Snowleopard
28/06/2016 - Alpinism
Maybe, chasing the Snowleopard
The trailer of the brief documentary that tells the story of the Piedmontese mountaineer Carlalberto Cimenti and his experience in the wild territory of the ex-Soviet Union as he attempts to receive the prestigious ‘Snow Leopard’ prize, awarded by the Russian Mountaineering Federation.
International Ski Mountaineering: the 2017 competition calendar
26/06/2016 - Competitions
International Ski Mountaineering: the 2017 competition calendar
The 2017 ISMF World Cup season contains 11 races in 5 different countries including, for the first time, Turkey. The traditional Grande Course competitions will no longer be part of the World Cup circuit.
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
25/06/2016 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
The video of Sonnie Trotter climbing the Totem Pole in Tasmania via the Ewbank Route. Established by John Ewbank and Allan Keller with the use of aid in 1968, in 2009 Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins freed the individual pitches on separate days. Trotter’s ascent is the first free ascent...

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