1008 News found

Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge to the top, returned to the saddle and descended the...

During a quick visit to Piedmont, Italy, Jacopo Larcher completed two important first repeats on the rough granite of Valle dell'Orco: the multi-pitch Angels and Demons on the Caporal with Barbara Zangerl and the highball Grenzenlos.

Interview with mountain guide Hermann Comploj who on 24/03/2021 made the first ski descent of the North Couloir on Col Turont (2419m) in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.

On 17 April 2021 Dylan Cunningham and Brette Harrington established Just a Nibble (M6R, 5.10-, WI5, 500m), a tenuous mixed climb up the virgin NE Face of Mount Niblock in Canada.

Italian mountaineers Leonardo Gheza and Giulia Venturelli enchained the north faces of Adamello, Cima della Busazza and Presanella in a single day. The 51km outing covered 3700 vertical gain and was completed in 22 hours.

British mountaineers John McCune and Will Sim have climbed what is likely to be a new route to the left of Beyond Good and Evil on the north face of Aiguille de Pélerins in the Mont Blanc massif. Above and Beyond has been graded ED M6 6b+.

Alpinists Emanuele Andreozzi and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of Elements of Life (900m, AI5/M6), a spectacular mixed climb up the north face of Cimon della Pala in the Pale di San Martino group of the Italian Dolomites.

From 2 -3 March 2021 Matthias Wurzer and Vittorio Messini, two mountain guides from Kals, Austria, completed a winter ascent of the Virger Nordkette (Frosnitzkamm) from Hintereggerkogel to Galtenscharte in one and a half days. Messini reports.

The report by Belgian alpinist Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll who this season has established two new rock climbs on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia: Chalten Sin Clecas (Chalten without tickmarks) with Mecha Rocamora and Chalten sin Chapas” (Chalten without bolts) with Matías Korten.

On 31 March 2021 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti repeated the Bonatti route on the Matterhorn.

On 6 March 2021 Paul Bonhomme and Xavier Cailhol skied La Cathédrale (1600m, 5.4-5.5/E4) down Rochers du Rochail in the Oisans massif, France.

Interview with French photographer Alex Buisse about his Mont Blanc Lines climbing poster project.

Brette Harrington, Christina Lustenberger and Andrew McNab have made the first ski descent of Gold Card Couloir located between Mount Burnham and Mount Grady in the Monashee Mountains, Canada.

Paul Bonhomme and Xavier Cailhol have made the first ski descent of the hitherto untouched North Face of Chaperon. Éperon des Saltimbanques is 1200m long and been graded 5.4/E4

Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.

Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.