242 News found

Leopoldo Faria, Rui Rosado, Ana and Bruno Silva Gaspar from Portugal have established "Off-Dido" (7a+ 550m) on the Babar Wall in the Nangmah Valley in Pakistan.

In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca, Perù). During the same time period Luca D’Andrea and Massimo...

Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.

In winter 2010 Florian and Martin Riegler carried out the first ascent of Schachmatt - Checkmate- 1000m M10+ WI5 55°) on the North Face of Gran Zebrù.

Almost unreal winter conditions in the Slovenian Alps have resulted in a flurry of interesting ascents. Slovenian alpinist Andrej Grmovšek provides the report.

On 01 January 2010 Fabio Giacomelli, the 51 year old mountaineer from Trentino, Italy, died in an avalanche at the base of the East Face of Cerro Torre. After a three day search climbing partner Elio Orlandi managed to locate the lifeless body.

It all took place at Terlago in Valle del Sarca, a stone's throw from Arco, Italy. But the story Manolo tells about this project which no longer exists could perhaps have taken place at any old crag...

Lino Lacedelli, 84, passed away in Cortina, Italy this morning. In 1954 the member of the famous Scoiattoli mountaineering club became the first person to reach the summit of K2, together with Achille Compagnoni.

On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.

On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.

On 18 July 2009 the 31 year old Italian mountaineer Cristina Castagna died as a result of a fall into a crevasse at 7000m during her descent from Broad Peak (Karakorum, Pakistan). Confirmation came from her climbing partner Giampaolo Casarotto.

Andrea Pavan has had a good bouldering season in Northern Italy, with a series of hard repeats and first ascents close to Val di Mello, Valmasino.

On 14/06/2009 Adam Ondra carried out the first repeat of Om 9a, the route first ascended in 1992 by Alexander Huber at Endstal in Germany.

A team of Mountain Guides and Sherpa have placed some bolts on Everest to make the South Face route safer.

The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...

From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.