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Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
29/04/2011 - Alpinism
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
On Thursday 28 April Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Erhard Loretan died in a climbing accident while ascending Grünhorn in the Bernse Alps. Loretan was one of the greatest alpinists of the modern era, the third person to have climbed...
Melloblocco #1, Copper skies above Monolith by Popi Miotti
22/04/2011 - Climbing
Melloblocco #1, Copper skies above Monolith by Popi Miotti
Giuseppe 'Popi' Miotti, the visions of a climber in Val Masino – Val di Mello and the distant vertical galaxies of pure granite.
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
19/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
Two Piolets d'Or were awarded on 15 April in Chamonix, France, during the IXX Piolet d'Or 2011: to the Greenland Big Walls by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Bob Shepton and to the ascent up Mount...
The earthquake in Abruzzo, two years on
06/04/2011 - Events
The earthquake in Abruzzo, two years on
Published below is an open letter written by Agostino Cittadini, a Mountain Guide from L'Aquila, who invites everyone to not forget the terrible earthquake which shook the Abruzzo region on 6 April two years ago...
Goulotte fantasma on Punta Sant'anna
23/02/2011 - Alpinism
Goulotte fantasma on Punta Sant'anna
On 6 February 2011 the Italians Luca Maspes, Annalisa Bonfanti and Anna Ceruti climbed Goulotte Santanna (250m) up the South East Face of Sant'Anna 3171m, Val Porcellizzo, Alta Val Masino).
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola...
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
27/10/2010 - Climbing
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
16/10/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
Adam Ondra has carried out the first free ascent in a single day of Tough Enough (8c, 380m) on the East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar. He concluded his trip by repeating Bravo les Filles (8b, 600m) and...
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established...
Pakistan: new route in the Nangmah Valley
07/09/2010 - Alpinism
Pakistan: new route in the Nangmah Valley
Leopoldo Faria, Rui Rosado, Ana and Bruno Silva Gaspar from Portugal have established "Off-Dido" (7a+ 550m) on the Babar Wall in the Nangmah Valley in Pakistan.
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
21/06/2010 - Alpinism
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca,...
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than...
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
19/05/2010 - Alpinism
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
In winter 2010 Florian and Martin Riegler carried out the first ascent of Schachmatt - Checkmate- 1000m M10+ WI5 55°) on the North Face of Gran Zebrù.
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
11/02/2010 - Alpinism
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
Almost unreal winter conditions in the Slovenian Alps have resulted in a flurry of interesting ascents. Slovenian alpinist Andrej Grmovšek provides the report.
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
07/01/2010 - Alpinism
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
On 01 January 2010 Fabio Giacomelli, the 51 year old mountaineer from Trentino, Italy, died in an avalanche at the base of the East Face of Cerro Torre. After a three day search climbing partner Elio Orlandi managed to locate...

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