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Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September,...
Andreas Fransson and JP Auclair killed by avalanche in Patagonia
Andreas Fransson and JP Auclair killed by avalanche in Patagonia
On 29/09/2014 Swedish skier Andreas Fransson and Canadian skier JP Auclair were killed by an avalanche on Monte San Lorenzo in Patagonia, on the border between Chile and Argentina. Both were considered two of the world's premier skiers.
Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the Greenland 2014 expedition, carried out together with Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva. This final update includes the exploration at Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
30/09/2014 - Alpinism
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
26/09/2014 - Climbing
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
On 23/09/2014 Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla made the first free ascent of Pinne gialle, a difficult new 4-pitch climb up the side of the large central corner at Tognazza (Passo Rolle, Dolomites, Italy).
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
23/09/2014 - Alpinism
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
The Uncharted expedition comprised of Camilo Rada, Natalia Martinez, Ines Dusaillant, Viviana Callahan and Evan Miles has made the first ascent of Volcan Aguilera (2480m) on the South Patagonian Icefield. Furthermore, during the return across the Hielos Continentales the team ascended four other previously unclimbed peaks. The report by Camilo...
International Mountain Summit: a meeting and a discussion about alpinism, doping, culture and the environment
19/09/2014 - Alpinism
International Mountain Summit: a meeting and a discussion about alpinism, doping, culture and the environment
At the International Mountain Summit 2014, that will take place in Brixen, Italy, from 16 - 21 October there are two important days organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and his director Dott. Luigi Festi. The first, on 17 October, is entitled 'A mountain of words, images, emotions, colors'...
Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein
18/09/2014 - Climbing
Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein
Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein, currently touring the Rocky Mountains National Park where the Dutchman recently sent The Wheel Of Chaos V14 (8B+) and the Austrian repeated Riddles in the Park V12 (8A+), provide insight into one of the most famous bouldering areas in the USA.
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
17/09/2014 - Alpinism
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
This summer Australian climbers Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner, acting on a photo taken by a Russian friend, travelled to the remote Bilibino area in eastern Russia where they made the first ascent of 6 new routes on what they believe are 4 previously virgin peaks. The report by Chris...
Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
15/09/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
This summer Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger made the first ascent of the Austrian-Swiss-Route up the SW Face of Mount Kirken, NE Greenland.
Anak Verhoeven climbs 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup
12/09/2014 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven climbs 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup
Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has redpointed Ultimate Sacrifice 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup, France.
Discover Brenta Dolomites - From the past to the future of alpinism in the Dolomites
12/09/2014 - Alpinism
Discover Brenta Dolomites - From the past to the future of alpinism in the Dolomites
The final dispatch of the Discover Brenta Dolomites project that organised a series of events by Molveno Holiday, APT Dolomiti Paganella and the municipality of Molveno to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of alpinism in the Brenta Dolomites.
Tor des Géants, a journey between the competition, the celebrations and the mountains. By Linda Cottino
11/09/2014 - Competitions
Tor des Géants, a journey between the competition, the celebrations and the mountains. By Linda Cottino
After the victory of local runner Franco Collé, followed by Nichademus Hollon (USA) and the Frenchmen Antoine Guillon and Christophe Le-Saux, France's Emilie Lecomte crossed the finishing line last night after 85 hours and 53 minutes, setting a new female track record. Italy's Lisa Barzani finished second in 94 hours...
Climbing at Frea, Dolomites
11/09/2014 - Climbing
Climbing at Frea, Dolomites
The historic crag Frea, just below the Gardena Pass in the Italian Dolomites. Part 5 of the series 'Crags for each season' published together with Vertical-Life.info.

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