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Cerro Torre, Italian climbing action in Patagonia
19/12/2014 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Italian climbing action in Patagonia
Currently there are numerous Italian teams climbing in Patagonia, in particular in the Chalten massif, where Cerro Torre was climbed via the Ragni route by Marcello Cominetti, Massimo Lucco, Francesco Salvaterra, Majori Marco, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli. The route's first ascent this season was made in September by Ermanno...
Crag certification and classification, bolter responsibilities and training: the French example and Philipp Brass interview
19/12/2014 - Climbing
Crag certification and classification, bolter responsibilities and training: the French example and Philipp Brass interview
Interview with Philippe Brass, mountain guide and expert new routes, about crag certification and classification, the responsibilities new bolters have the the training they receive. By Maurizio Oviglia
San Liberale, the crag in Italy's Monte Grappa massif. By Marco Savio.
18/12/2014 - Climbing
San Liberale, the crag in Italy's Monte Grappa massif. By Marco Savio.
A short history about San Liberale and its Frankenjura-style climbing in Italy's Monte Grappa massif. By Marco Savio.
Stefano Ghisolfi rocks Red River Gorge
17/12/2014 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi rocks Red River Gorge
Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi sends five 8c/c+ and Southern Smoke Direct 9a at Red River Gorge, USA.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2015, Maxim Tomilov and Liudmila Badalyan win in Bozeman
16/12/2014 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2015, Maxim Tomilov and Liudmila Badalyan win in Bozeman
The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup, held on 12 and 13 December at Bozeman, USA, was won by Maxim Tomilov and Liudmila Badalyan. The Speed competition was won by Nikolai Kuzovlev and Kendra Stritch.
Sea cliff crags at risk: climbing ban or rebolting?
15/12/2014 - Climbing
Sea cliff crags at risk: climbing ban or rebolting?
Maurizio Oviglia analyses the recent case of the sea cliff sports crag “Casarotto” at Capo Caccia, Alghero, Sardinia.
Mina Markovic onsights 8b+ at Oliana
12/12/2014 - Climbing
Mina Markovic onsights 8b+ at Oliana
Yesterday at Oliana in Spain the Slovenian climber Mina Markovic managed to onsight Humildes pa casa 8b+.
Patagonia first ascent by Colin Haley and Rob Smith
11/12/2014 - Alpinism
Patagonia first ascent by Colin Haley and Rob Smith
American alpinists Colin Haley and Rob Smith have made the first ascent of Romance Explosion (500m, 5.10R, M5R) and in doing so have made the first ascent of Aguja Antipasto, the beautiful tower located next to Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia.
The myths and legends of alpinism: dreaming about Hermann and his bicycle
09/12/2014 - Alpinism
The myths and legends of alpinism: dreaming about Hermann and his bicycle
Ivo Ferrari and Hermann the "cyclist-alpinist", fiction and facts and the story, completely dreamt up, about the legend of alpinism.
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview
05/12/2014 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra after his 100th sport climb graded 9a or harder.
Wasserkopf, new Rieserferner mixed and ice climb by Gietl and Messini
05/12/2014 - Alpinism
Wasserkopf, new Rieserferner mixed and ice climb by Gietl and Messini
On 25/11/2014 Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Hakuna Matata (V, M6 650m), a new mixed and ice climb up the North Face of Wasserkopf (3135m), Rieserferner group, Tauern Alps. The new route crosses, at 2/3 height, the line first climbed in 1977 by Werner Beikircher...
Rolling south... climbing at Gola di Frasassi and Monte Pertuso, Amalfi coast
04/12/2014 - Climbing
Rolling south... climbing at Gola di Frasassi and Monte Pertuso, Amalfi coast
Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascents, carried out together with Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori, of three new multi-pitch rock climbs: Free Frasassi (85m, 7b+) and Decrescita Obbligata (130m, 7c+) at Gola di Frasassi (An), and Benvenuti al Sud (215m, 7a+), Monte Pertuso (Amalfi coast), Italy.
Quicklyquickly up Spigolo Nord, Monte Agner. By Ivo Ferrari
03/12/2014 - Alpinism
Quicklyquickly up Spigolo Nord, Monte Agner. By Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari remembers the solo ascent up the infinite Spigolo Nord on Monte Agnèr, Valle di San Lucano, Dolomites. A majestic 1600m high route, first climbed in 1932 by Celso Gilberti and Oscar Soravito, considered to be the longest rock climb in the Dolomites.
The quest for adventure: Tobias Wolf and Stephan Isensee
03/12/2014 - Alpinism
The quest for adventure: Tobias Wolf and Stephan Isensee
German climber Tobias Wolf recounts his vertical adventures, together with Stephan Isensee, on three demanding climbs in the Alps first ascended by the Ragni di Lecco Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma, and by Luca Auguadri. Infinite Jest (Wendenstöcke), Il Mito della Caverna (Val Bavona) and Non è un paese...
Rolwaling valley in Nepal, a family expedition. By Maurizio Oviglia
02/12/2014 - Alpinism
Rolwaling valley in Nepal, a family expedition. By Maurizio Oviglia
The Rolwaling valley in Nepal, Yalung Ri (5630m) and an expedition with family and friends to enjoy an adventure, a journey, nature and friendship. By Maurizio Oviglia
Alex Honnold and Josh McCoy repeat the Muir Wall in Yosemite
01/12/2014 - Climbing
Alex Honnold and Josh McCoy repeat the Muir Wall in Yosemite
American climber Alex Honnold, together with Josh McCoy, has free climbed the Muir Wall (5.13b/c) and PreMuir (5.13c/d) El Capitan, Yosemite.