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Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
27/07/2016 - Alpinism
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
On 17 and 18 July 2016 Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climbed a new route up the immense SW Face of Cima Busazza (Civetta group, Dolomites). The 800m climb breaches difficulties up to VII/VII+, includes a short section of A2...
Arco Rock Legends 2016: the sport climbing Oscars nominees
27/07/2016 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2016: the sport climbing Oscars nominees
On Friday 26 August 2016 the annual sport climbing Oscars return to celebrate the 11th Arco Rock Legends awards during the historic 30th Rock Master climbing competition. The candidates for the Wild Country Rock Award are Dani Andrada (Esp), Jakob...
Mario Dalmaviva, a tribute by PlanetMountain
25/07/2016 - Book-press
Mario Dalmaviva, a tribute by PlanetMountain
Last week Mario Dalmaviva left us after loosing his long battle against illness. In 2000, as director of Vivalda Editori, he played a vital role in the birth of PlanetMountain.
Urko Carmona Barandiaran climbs Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites
24/07/2016 - Alpinism
Urko Carmona Barandiaran climbs Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Spanish paraclimber Urko Carmona Barandiaran has recently made two ascents up Cima Grande, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites. Climbing together with Juan Antonio Ramos Bellido, he repeated Via Dülfer and then Via Comici - Dimai.
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
22/07/2016 - Alpinism
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari climbs the North-West Arête, also known as Via W.H. on the West face of the Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites). This classic outing was first climbed on 09/05/1971 by Heini Holzer and Sieglinde Walzl.
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years...
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free....
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane...
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl victorious in Villars
18/07/2016 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2016: Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl victorious in Villars
The second stage of IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Villars, Switzerland last weekend and was won by Janja Garnbret and Sean McColl. The fourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Marcin Dzienski of Poland and...
Only one climbing God: the grade!
14/07/2016 - Climbing
Only one climbing God: the grade!
Motivated by debates on facebook, the Italian climber and photographer Riky Felderer shares his point of view about an issue that knows no end: climbing grades.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
09/07/2016 - Alpinism
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Voie Petit, the 450m 8b multi-pitch climb on Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc first ascended in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and freed in 2005 by Alexander Huber.
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
02/07/2016 - Alpinism
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
Italian mountain guide Alberto De Giuli introduces Traumschiff, the classic multi-pitch sport climb established in 1986 by Simon Demetz and Karl Vinatzer up the Traumpfeiler face at Cansla, Meisules dla Biesces, Dolomites.
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham have just made the first ascent of the beautiful NW Ridge of Gangstang (6162m) in the Himachal Pradesh Himalaya. They reached the summit on the 9th June and descended to base camp the next day...
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
On Saturday, 11/06/2016 Enrico Rosso, Pietro Sella and Antonio Zavattarelli made the first ascent of Mindfulness, a new climb up Rumi Mallku (5900m), Cordillera Real, Bolivian Andes. A few days earlier, the 'Illampu 2016' expedition members teamed up with Davide...