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La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
06/05/2021 - Climbing
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
Rolando Larcher introduces the splendid crag La Severina close to Palinuro in Campania, Italy. A '40m high overhanging forest of stalactites' developed between 2019 and 2020 that currently boasts 20 routes between 6b and 8c.
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites
Interview with mountain guide Hermann Comploj who on 24/03/2021 made the first ski descent of the North Couloir on Col Turont (2419m) in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.
Monte Colodri, Arco: Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana complete their Opera Buffa
29/04/2021 - Alpinism
Monte Colodri, Arco: Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana complete their Opera Buffa
On the east face of Monte Colodri in Arco (Sarca Valley, Italy) Alessandro Beber and Matteo Pavana have established the multi-pitch rock climb Opera Buffa (270m, 7c+). Beber reports.
Rock climbing at Sperlonga featured in Petzl Legend Tour Italy
27/04/2021 - Climbing
Rock climbing at Sperlonga featured in Petzl Legend Tour Italy
After the magnificent limestone crags at Finale Ligure, the second stage of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy stops off at Sperlonga, the hotspot for sport climbing development in Central Italy during the 1980’s.
Brenta Dolomites Cima Margherita - Canale Merzbacher integral ski descent
Brenta Dolomites Cima Margherita - Canale Merzbacher integral ski descent
The report by Andrea Cozzini and Claudio Lanzafame who on 13 March 2021 in the Brenta Dolomites made what is likely to be the first complete ski descent of Cima Margherita face and the Merzbacher gully.
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
21/04/2021 - Alpinism
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
Italian mountaineers Leonardo Gheza and Giulia Venturelli enchained the north faces of Adamello, Cima della Busazza and Presanella in a single day. The 51km outing covered 3700 vertical gain and was completed in 22 hours.
Hervé Barmasse solos all six Matterhorn ridges
15/04/2021 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse solos all six Matterhorn ridges
On Wednesday 3 March 2021 Italian mountaineer Hervé Barmasse soloed Via De Amicis on the Matterhorn. With this ascent the 43-year-old mountaineer from Valle d'Aosta closed the circle, becoming the first to solo all six ridges of the Matterhorn.
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
31/03/2021 - Alpinism
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon recently returned from an attempt to climb Manaslu in winter. An expedition which ended without the hoped-for success but which, once again, teaches us to 'find more important goals than the summit.'
Martina Valmassoi breaks 24-hour uphill ski record, climbs staggering 17,645m
Martina Valmassoi breaks 24-hour uphill ski record, climbs staggering 17,645m
From 21 and 22 March 2021 Martina Valmassoi from Italy broke the female 24-hour uphill ski record, ascending 17,645m in 24 hours at Auronzo di Cadore in the Dolomites.
Franco Nicolini, Davide Galizzi climb new route in heart of Brenta Dolomites
17/03/2021 - Alpinism
Franco Nicolini, Davide Galizzi climb new route in heart of Brenta Dolomites
On Punta Centrale dei Sfulmini in the Brenta Dolomites Franco Nicolini and Davide Galizzi have made the first ascent of the rock climb La Piccozza nella Roccia. Nicolini reports about the route dedicated to his friend Giuliano Stenghel.
La Cathédrale ski descent on Rochers du Rochail by Paul Bonhomme, Xavier Cailhol
La Cathédrale ski descent on Rochers du Rochail by Paul Bonhomme, Xavier Cailhol
On 6 March 2021 Paul Bonhomme and Xavier Cailhol skied La Cathédrale (1600m, 5.4-5.5/E4) down Rochers du Rochail in the Oisans massif, France.
About Tamara Lunger and K2 in winter
02/03/2021 - Alpinism
About Tamara Lunger and K2 in winter
Tamara Lunger from the South Tyrol, Italy, has recently returned home after attempting to climb K2 in winter. The expedition was an important but also tragic experience, marked by the loss of Sergi Mingote, Atanas Skatov, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Juan Pablo Mohr and John Snorri Sigurjónsson.
K2: all hope lost of finding Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and John Snorri alive
18/02/2021 - Alpinism
K2: all hope lost of finding Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and John Snorri alive
During a press conference held in Skardu today Muhammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri Sigurjónsson and Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto were officially declared dead, The three mountaineers were last seen on 5 February at the Bottleneck while climbing towards the summit of K2 in winter.
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
15/02/2021 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
Interview with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia, carried out solo from 5 to 10 February and christened the Moonwalk Traverse by the Belgian mountaineer. This is only the second time that the iconic skyline of Patagonia has been climbed in its entirety in a single...
Atanas Skatov dies in a fall on K2
05/02/2021 - Alpinism
Atanas Skatov dies in a fall on K2
Bulgarian climber Atanas Skatov has died while descending from K2. The 42-year-old was attempting to climb the second highest mountain in the world in winter and had previously climbed 10 eight-thousanders.
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...