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Ice climbing in Canada, the video by Scherer and Schmitt
04/01/2013 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Canada, the video by Scherer and Schmitt
The video of Rainbow Serpent, Shooting Star and Whiteman Falls, three ice falls repeated by Tanja Schmitt and Matthias Scherer in Canada.
Cerro Torre, the Ragni Route and an increasingly popular Patagonia
04/01/2013 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, the Ragni Route and an increasingly popular Patagonia
News from Patagonia: 48 alpinists summited Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route, while a variation finish was added called Directa Huarpe. The Cerro Pollone group was traversed by Japanese climbers Jumbo Jokoyama e Ryo Masumoto.
Toru Nakajima repeats Tokoyo 8C at Kasagi in Japan
03/01/2013 - Climbing
Toru Nakajima repeats Tokoyo 8C at Kasagi in Japan
Japanese climber Toru Nakajima had repeated the boulder problem Tokoyo 8C at Kasagi in Japan.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...
Gabriele Moroni and Silvio Reffo, two 9a's at Siurana
30/12/2012 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni and Silvio Reffo, two 9a's at Siurana
Yesterday at Siurana in Spain Gabriele Moroni and Silvio Reffo both sent their 9a routes: Jungle Speed the former, Estado Critico the latter.
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
30/12/2012 - Climbing
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
On 10 December 2012 the bolts were removed from the sports climb Eterno Riposo, Eternal Rest, at Ceredo in Italy. On his blog Andrea Tosi, the man who first bolted the climb and now removed the bolts, explains his actions.
Jacopo Larcher 8b+ onsight at Montsant
29/12/2012 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher 8b+ onsight at Montsant
While Italian climbers Gabriele Moroni and Silvio Reffo are now at Siurana, at Montsant in Spain Jacopo Larcher has onsighted his second 8b+, Les Elements.
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
28/12/2012 - Interviews
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
An analysis of the youth climbing competition scene and interview with European Lead Tina Johnsen Hafsaas. An article by Franz Schiassi.
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
Stella Marchisio: Conception
21/12/2012 - Climbing
Stella Marchisio: Conception
The video profile of one of the strongest female boulderers, Stella Marchisio.
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
20/12/2012 - Gear
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
A sample of carabiners and quickdraws have been tested and analised by Emanuele Pellizzari at the Italian Mountaineering Club Gear and Techniques laboratory at Taggì di Sopra, Villafranca Padovana, Padova, Italy.
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
20/12/2012 - Interviews
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
Interview with New Zealand rock climber Mayan Smith-Gobat. Her ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles, the Salathé Wall on El Capitan, the Nose Speed and more...
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
19/12/2012 - Alpinism
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
On 8 and 9 December 2012 three new routes were established up the North Face of Piz Spallone Pizzo del Becco (Orobie, Alta Val Brembana, BG); Fò di B.A.L (250m, III - WI 2 - M5), Beccati questa Goulotte (250m, II - WI 2 - M4) and Bo (250m, II...
Great Italian climbing action in Spain
18/12/2012 - Climbing
Great Italian climbing action in Spain
At Oliana in Spain Silvio Reffo has sent an 8c+, while at Siurana Jacopo Larcher has redpointed his second 9a.
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein
17/12/2012 - Alpinism
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein
In summer 2012 a group of young Swiss climbers established La chute de rein (600m, 6c, A1 pendulum) on peak Whale Top (1303m) in Southern Greenland.
Maurice Herzog
14/12/2012 - Alpinism
Maurice Herzog
The first man to climb an 8000m peak, French alpinist Maurice Herzog, died today aged 93, as reported by the French Mountaineering Federation.

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