The news

568
News in archive
Polo sends Talk is cheap 8c at Misja Pec
14/12/2004 - Climbing
Polo sends Talk is cheap 8c at Misja Pec
On 8 december Andrea Poli sent "Talk is cheap" 8c, on 12 December "Missing Link" 8b+ at Misja Pec, Slovenia.
Papert sends Schattenkoenig 8b
13/12/2004 - Climbing
Papert sends Schattenkoenig 8b
On 5 November Ines Papert redpointed Schattenkoenig 8b at Berchtesgaden, Germany.
McClure deep water solos 8b+
03/12/2004 - Climbing
McClure deep water solos 8b+
On 15/09/2004 Steve McClure made the first ascent of Ring of Fire, 8b+, Holy Grail Wall, Mana Island, Croatia, the hardest deep water solo in the world.
Ice meetings and competitions
02/12/2004 - Events
Ice meetings and competitions
Ice meeting for the 2004/2005 season in Arco, Italy, Argentière la Bessée (Fournel), France, st its annual ice-fall meeting:Kandersteg, Switzerland and Festiglace, Quebec, Canada
Daone ice structure works
01/12/2004 - Competitions
Daone ice structure works
Work is underway on the Ice Climbing Stadium for the international Ice Master in Valle di Daone, programmed for 25-29 January 2005
Banff 2004 winners
30/11/2004 - Events
Banff 2004 winners
The traditional Banff Mountain Festival, a week-long celebration of mountain films, books and photography held in Banff, came to a close on 7 November.
Shisha Pangma, Winter Expedition 2004-2005
25/11/2004 - Alpinism
Shisha Pangma, Winter Expedition 2004-2005
On 29/11, Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Zaluski Jacek Jawien and Piotr Morawski head for Tibetto attempt the first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma (8027m).
Daone Ice Meeting
18/11/2004 - Competitions
Daone Ice Meeting
From 25-29 January 2005 the Vth International Meeting Pareti di Cristallo will be held in Valle di Daone, Italy.
Kalymnos Rock Festival report
09/11/2004 - Climbing
Kalymnos Rock Festival report
At the start of October more than 500 climbers from all over the world gathered in Kalymnos for the second Kalymnos Rock Climbing Festival.
Jean-François Beaulieu frees La Zébrée, trad 8b+
05/11/2004 - Climbing
Jean-François Beaulieu frees La Zébrée, trad 8b+
In mid-October Jean-François Beaulieu from Canada pinkpointed an old aid project, La Zébrée at Mont-King, Val David, Québec, grading it 8b+
New UIAA directive
27/10/2004 - Alpinism
New UIAA directive
At the UIAA General Assembly in New Delhi, on 16 October 2004, there were important elections for the term of 2005-2008 for a new President, Board, Council and Commission members.
Orco Valley new routes
26/10/2004 - Climbing
Orco Valley new routes
At the end of September Massimo Farina and Ezio Marlier put up two new routes in the mythical granite Valle dell' Orco (Italy), Tatanka (270m, max 7c, 6c obbl.) and Tomawauk Dance (165m, max 7c, 7a obbl.).
Eiter and Chabot win in Aprica
25/10/2004 - Competitions
Eiter and Chabot win in Aprica
Angela Eiter and Alexandre Chabot have won the seventh stage of the World Cup Difficulty 2004 in Aprica (Italy)
Lisa Rands climbs gritstone E8!
20/10/2004 - Climbing
Lisa Rands climbs gritstone E8!
Lisa Rands from America becomes the first female climber to ascend gritstone E8 by climbing End Of The Affair (E8 6c) at Curbar, Peak District, England
Mauro Bubu Bole F.A. on Torre Trieste
15/10/2004 - Alpinism
Mauro Bubu Bole F.A. on Torre Trieste
On 30 September Mauro Bubu Bole made the first free ascent of his "Patrick Berhault" 8a on the 900m SW Face of Torre Trieste, Dolomites.
Martina Cufar first female ascent of Hotel Supramonte
08/10/2004 - Climbing
Martina Cufar first female ascent of Hotel Supramonte
On September 28 Martina Cufar, together with Marko Lukic, made the first female ascent of Hotel Supramonte, Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia.