Shauna Coxsey and Jongwon Chon win Innsbruck stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016

Innsbruck has always been a showcase stage on the Bouldering World Cup circuit and last night’s fifth leg of the 2016 season proved no different. After the record breaking qualifiers (67 women and 108 men), an estimated 3700 spectators watched in amazement as the final unfolded, won eventually by Britain’s Shauna Coxsey who after her faux pas in India a week ago set the record straight to win her fourth event this season. Meaning, basically, tht she's won every final she’s managed to qualify for.

Coxsey qualified last for the finals along with local hero Anna Stöhr, but then set a pace no one managed to follow with two fast flashes. Initially Megan Mascarenas kept up and flashed the first two problems as well, but W3 proved simply too difficult for the young American and she eventually slipped into 4th place. Although Japan’s Miho Nonaka solved problem #3 fastest, the 4th and final hurdle turned out to be a showdown between Coxsey and young Slovenian superstar Janja Garnbret, completely at ease despite this being only her second ever senior bouldering competition.

As the spotlight shone on the last problem, the two were separated by just one attempt in Coxsey’s favor and the Brit, on absolute top form like never before, kept her cool and flashed this problem, too, completing her startling run with 4 tops in 8 attempts. Garnbret took her first senior silver with 4 tops in 10 attempts, 3 less than Miho Nonaka who settled for third after winning in India last week. Multiple World Cup winner Anna Stöhr delighted the home crowd and showed she’s still a force to be reckoned with after recovering from her finger injury by claiming 5th place, ahead of Akiyo Noguchi from Japan and Sol Sa from Korea, 6th and 7th respectively after what must have been a fairly frustrating and disappointing final for them.

The last round was anything but disappointing for Jongwon Chon, who demonstrated convincingly why he won the World Cup last year. The young Korean started second-to-last as he’d qualified second in the previous heat, just behind Sean McColl who until Innsbruck had had a decidedly under-par and somewhat unlucky season. Chon laid the foundations by flashing problem #1 and sending problem #2 on his second go, while his flash on #3 secured him an early victory - his first this season. Japan’s Narasaki slipped into second place by sending the last two problems, while Sean McColl pipped Rolands Rugens of Latvia to the post and secured bronze thanks to the smallest of margins - just a couple of less attempts needed to reach a bonus zone. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov found himself in the unusual position of failing to send a single problem in the finals but at least steered his way onto two bonuses, while Martin Stranik, despite fighting valiantly, failed to do even this.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2016
Men
1 Jongwon Chon KOR 3t4 3b4
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2t9 4b13
3 Sean McColl CAN 1t3 2b4
4 Rolands Rugens LAT 1t3 2b8
5 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 0t 2b10
6 Martin Stranik CZE 0t 0b
7 Manuel Cornu FRA
8 Thomas Caleyron FRA
9 Mickael Mawem FRA
10 Kokoro Fujii JPN
11 Alban Levier FRA
12 David Barrans GBR
13 Stefan Scarperi ITA
14 Jernej Kruder SLO
15 Gabriele Moroni ITA
16 Alexey Rubtsov RUS
17 Nathan Phillips GBR
17 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
19 Kipras Baltrunas LTU
20 Andre Difelice CAN
21 Sergii Topishko UKR
22 Jakob Schubert AUT
23 Bjørn Arnel Iisager DEN
23 Alex Khazanov ISR
25 Gholamali Baratzadeh IRI
25 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
27 Rustam Gelmanov RUS
27 Tomoaki Takata JPN
29 Alexander Averdunk GER
29 David Firnenburg GER
31 Jan Hojer GER
31 Georg Parma AUT
33 Tyler Landman GBR
33 Vadim Timonov RUS
33 Gregor Vezonik SLO
36 Jeremy Bonder FRA
37 Max Prinz GER
37 Domen Skofic SLO
39 Nicky De Leeuw NED
39 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN
41 Austin Geiman USA
41 William Ridal GBR
41 Keita Watabe JPN
44 Benjamin Blaser SUI
44 Jan-Luca Posch AUT
44 Max Rudigier AUT
47 Tsukuru Hori JPN
48 Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor POL
49 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
49 Filip Schenk ITA
51 Alfons Dornauer AUT
51 Jorg Verhoeven NED
53 Jakub Glowka POL
53 Baptiste Ometz SUI
55 Marcello Bombardi ITA
55 Eric Lopez Mateos ESP
57 Moritz Hans GER
57 Stephane Hanssens BEL
59 Lukas Ennemoser AUT
59 Sergio Verdasco Urizal ESP
61 Matthias König SUI
61 Bozhidar Lyubenov BUL
63 Borna Cujic CRO
63 Jakub Jodlowski POL
65 Josh Larson USA
65 David Piccolruaz ITA
67 Andreas Aufschnaiter AUT
67 Kevin Heiniger SUI
69 Florian Klingler AUT
69 Ivan Pevec CRO
71 Sergii Karpin UKR
71 Bernhard Röck AUT
73 Vilimantas Petrasiunas LTU
73 Atsushi Shimizu JPN
75 Štefan Bednar SVK
75 Elias Weiler AUT
77 Nils Favre SUI
77 Falco Filotto BOT
77 Pol Roca Lopez ESP
80 Matthias Erber AUT
81 Alessandro Palma ITA
81 Riccardo Piazza ITA
83 Arnaud Ansion BEL
83 Rolf -Martin Bjørngaard NOR
85 Oldrich Klapal CZE
85 Martin Penkov BUL
87 Petar Ivanov BUL
87 Krešimir Morić CRO
89 Ilari Juho Kelloniemi FIN
89 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
91 Hristo Altanchev BUL
91 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
91 Nikola Kramaric CRO
94 Övgün Yildirim TUR
95 Lukas Geukens BEL
95 Stepan Stranik CZE
97 Zorbey Aktuyun TUR
97 Will Johnson CAN
99 Nikola Petrov BUL
99 Efe Can Sevil TUR
101 Vladislav Angelov BUL
101 Anton Kukhar UKR
103 Charalampos Gemenetzi CYP
103 Luka Kivela CRO
103 Lee Zong Jun Nicholas SIN
103 Christopher Smith USA
103 Arda Kadi̇r Uruluer TUR
108 Abdulla Aldoseri BRN

Women
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 4t8 4b8
2 Janja Garnbret SLO 4t10 4b9
3 Miho Nonaka JPN 4t13 4b10
4 Megan Mascarenas USA 2t2 3b3
5 Anna Stöhr AUT 2t11 4b8
6 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 1t3 2b2
7 Sol Sa KOR 0t 3b3
8 Melissa Le Neve FRA
9 Stasa Gejo SRB
10 Jessica Pilz AUT
11 Katharina Posch AUT
12 Monika Retschy GER
13 Petra Klingler SUI
13 Berit Schwaiger AUT
15 Leah Crane GBR
16 Katharina Saurwein AUT
17 Michaela Tracy GBR
18 Tjasa Slemensek SLO
19 Alannah Yip CAN
20 Ekaterina Andreeva RUS
21 Fanny Gibert FRA
21 Yuka Kobayashi JPN
23 Chloé Caulier BEL
23 Lilli Kiesgen GER
25 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA
25 Alizée Dufraisse FRA
25 Karoline Sinnhuber AUT
28 Lisa Chulich USA
29 Mathilde Becerra FRA
29 Petra Ruzickova CZE
31 Annalisa De Marco ITA
31 Hannah Midtboe NOR
33 Julija Kruder SLO
33 Saari Watanabe JPN
35 Clementine Kaiser FRA
35 Giorgia Tesio ITA
37 Natalie Bärtschi SUI
37 Franziska Sterrer AUT
39 Romane Grandcoing FRA
39 Magdalena Röck AUT
41 Michelle Kim Theisen DEN
41 Elise Sethna CAN
43 Anna Borella ITA
43 Tara Hayes GBR
45 Johanna Holfeld GER
45 Sofya Yokoyama SUI
47 Katarzyna Ekwinska POL
47 Valeri Kremer ISR
49 Katrine Vandet Salling DEN
49 Vera Zijlstra NED
51 Johanna Färber AUT
51 Margaryta Zakharova UKR
53 Dominika Dupalova CZE
53 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR
55 Miwa Oba JPN
55 Julia Pinggera AUT
57 Anna Laitinen FIN
57 Itziar Zabala Zurinaga ESP
59 Karina Bilkova CZE
59 Andrea Ebner ITA
61 Paulina Kalandyk POL
61 Anastasija Teriochina LTU
63 Olga Niemiec POL
63 Agniete Seibokaite LTU
65 Mária Čelková SVK
65 Tabea Schwab SUI
67 Fatma Basoglu Kabran TUR
67 Daniela Kotrbova CZE