Paris 2024 Olympics LIVE: sport climbing day 1, Men's Boulder & Women's Speed

15:09
Our reporting finishes for today. We will be live again tomorrow for the women's Boulder semifinal at 10:00 am, followed by the Men's Speed. Thanks for having been here with us.

15:02
Those who have qualified for the next round on Wednesday are: Aleksandra Miroslaw, Emma Hunt, Aleksandra Kalucka, Yafei Zhou, Lijuan Deng, Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi, Rajiah Sallsabillah and Leslie Adriana Romero Pérez.

14:39
Heartbreak from Italy's Beatrice Colli. Right until the very end the Italian hoped to qualify for the final as the "fastest loser", but the unimaginable happened and it wasn't to be. Against all odds both athletes in the last heat, Leslie Adriana Romero Pérez and Rajah Sallsabillah, qualified! Sallsabillah fell but, having climbed faster earlier today, qualified nevertheless. Talk about twists and turns!

14:14
After a short break, the elimination races begin. They'll decide who qualifies for the final.

14:00
It's worth remembering that the Olympics have a slightly different comp format in this phase compared to World Cup events. All 14 athletes make two runs, and as normal, the first phase is based purely on time. This ranking is used to determine the  elimination racing; the fastest competes against the slowest, etc. The seven winners of these knock-out clashes qualify for the final, plus the ‘fastest loser’.

13:41
NEW WORLD RECORD AGAIN!!!
Minutes after setting the world record, Aleksandra Mirosław does it again during the seeding round, stopping the clock after 6.06! 



13:27
NEW WORLD RECORD
Aleksandra Mirosław sets a new world record during the seeding round, stopping the clock after 6.21! 

13:32
Technical incident resolved. All set to go again. The first two athletes who suffered the technical incident on the left route repeat their run.

13:12
The Speed seeding has begun, the first athletes have raced up the wall but the buzzers didn't stop on the left wall. Technical incident? A route setter has climbed up the wall to test the buzzer. We're all waiting for the problem to be resolved and for the comp to restart.

13:00 SPEED CLIMBING SEEDING
Speed climbing has begun with the seeding run, fundamental for the qualifications at 13:35.

12:30
SPEED CLIMBING AT 13:00
Now there's a short break for about half an hour, then the attention shifts only a few meters to the 15m, 5° overhanging wall where the women's Speed qualifications will begin at 13:00. This is the first time that Speed ​​climbing has its medals.

12:24
Sorato Anraku ends the competition, after two hours and twenty minutes of world-class action, demonstrating that Team Japan wants to assert itself not only on the World Cup stage but also here at the Paris Olympics. Indeed, two Japanese lead the provisional ranking: Sorato Anraku and Tomoa Narasaki, followed by Britain's Toby Roberts. For them, and for all the others, the next climbs will be on Wednesday at 10:00am for the Lead semifinal. Another 100 points are up for grabs. It's worth remembering that it's not the position, but the score, that really counts. And that another 100 points are up for grabs in the Semis.

12:11
ROBERTS TOPS BOULDER #4!
Toby Roberts exits the comp, but only after having exulted on problem #4. The young Brit risked everything, almost fell, but kept his nerve and balance and stuck the last move on the tricky traverse. What an unbelievable performance from the 19-year-old here this morning, especially considering the fact that Bouldering is not his speciality.

12:07
Schubert struggles on the fourth boulder, but fails to find the balance needed to conclude his run with another top. Next to him Sorato Anraku needs several attempts to mechanize the first section of #3, but like everyone else fails to stick the dyno finish. Problem #  remains unclimbed.

11:59
NARASAKI TOP BOULDER #4!
Tomoa Narasaki pulls off a regal perfomance and tops boulder #4. Provisional first for the Japanese grand master.

11:55
ANRAKU TOPS BOULDER #2!
Sorato Anraku tops the second problem as well and now comfortably leads the provisional ranking. He even flashed it, showing he's in dazzling form in Paris!

11:52
The Le Bourget Climbing wall begins to empty as we enter the final stages of this Olympic semi-final. Narasaki mechanizes the third problem very quickly but fails to send. Duffy bounces off the fearsome slab on #4.

11:49
ANRAKU TOPS BOULDER #1
The competition is now entering the final, decisive stages. Sorato Anraku enters the arena, the youngest in the competition today, and he promptly solves the first problem without the slightest hesitation on his second go.

11.42
ONDRA TOPS #4
After refining his beta on problem #4, Ondra finds the right sequence and walzes across the slab to the top. Still in the air, the Czech explodes with joy!

11:41
Toby Roberts, the second-to-last athlete this morning, enters the scene and battles to the max on the first problem, only to miss the top by a hair's breadth. It seemed he'd matched the last hold but the judge thought differently.

11:35
TOP ALSO FOR AVEZOU!
Sam Avezou absolutely spectacular on #4. The Frenchman concludes his comp with a precise traverse across the slab which secures the second top of the comp and shoots him into provisional first place with 49.2 points.

11:34
TOP FOR SCHUBERT!
Jakob Schubert, Olympic bronze in Tokyo, battles incessantly on #1, even knee jams the penultimate hold, and in the end sticks the top! The first in the entire competition! Schubert's on fire!

11:22
Colin Duffy starts his Olympics but can't work out problem #1, while Paul Jenft got the crow on fire with his painfully close attempt on #4; getting higher than everyone else, he slips off the last move, disappearing from view and falling off the edge of the mattress!

11:16
Alexander Megos enters the arena, tries problem #1, but like everyone else fails to make headway on this powerful start. Sascha Lehmann makes a great attempt on problem #3 and almost sends it! So close for the Swissman! No tops so far! This continues to be very low-scoring round

11:12
Flohè almost dominates the problem #2 on his first go, but in the end slips off the slopers like all the rest. Could conditions be changing and the temperature becoming a problem? Meanwhile Ondra also reaches the final hold, on #1, but after what feels like an eternity on the wall he can't find the correct position to match the last hold. He decides to end his attempt with 1:30 still left on the clock, knowing he can't do better than that. Tactics also play their part in this vertical marathon.

11:06
The comp is heating up, the clock keeps ticking, but all athletes are struggling with the route setters' proposals. Time for a prediction: the best athlete will reach 2 tops and two 10 zones. Hopefull that the last athletes will prove us wrong ;-) Meanwhile Adam Ondra is out on the mats, ready for his Olympic climb...

11:01
Yannick Flohé, how frustrating! He almost sends the first problem of the competition, but the German fails to match the top on #1 that would have given him 25 points. His performance was good, and shows he's on fire in his preferred discipline. It's undoubtedly to early to say, but a glance at the current ranking seems to indicate that at least ten points on three problems are needed to rank high in this round.

10:56
Hamish Mcarthur ends his comp by falling several times from the 10-point hold on boulder #4. But he's provisional first. Sascha Lehmann starts his adventure but struggles like so many of his rivals on #1, while Ginés López falls matching #2. This problem seems the most doable, but the last move is really hard.

10:49
The fourth problem begins with a dyno and then continues up a technical slab that requires great balance and precision. Meanwhile, the crowd erupts in joy as it welcomes local favourite Sam Avezou, who certainly doesn't want to disappoint and begins with a promising start on problem #1. The route setters worked hard for two months to produce today's comp and one thing is certain: the boulder are no walkover. Having said that,we'll wait for all the athletes to enter the stage. They're competing in reverse order of the current world ranking.

10:41
This first Olympic competition is being watched by a sell-out, 7000 strong crows. After the first half hour Hamish Mcarthur leads the rankings, but the top seeds have yet to make their debut. Speaking of top seeds: Alberto Ginés López, gold medal winner in Tokyo 2020, is now on the mats, ready to defend the title.

10:33
Pan Yufei starts his Olympic bid, while Hamish Mcarthur easily moves through #2, touching the top twice but failing to stick the swing. Mel Janse Van Rensburg tries his luck on #3, a swing start followed by balance and coordination. 19-year-old Hannes Van Duysen starts his Olympic debut with a superb first attempt on #1 but then fails. Luka Potocar returns to the stadium and despite making headway on #2, fails to hold the dyno finish. Campbell Harrison doesn't feel comfortable on #3. Ever-smiling Jesse Grupper enters the Olympic parterre are now all four problems are being attempted simultaneously. The action is heating up.

10:22
The second boulder is a completely different style, a coordination start that requires creating tension between the hand and a toe hook. Mel Janse Van Rensburg cannot find the correct position. Campbell Harrison finds a static method for the start of the second block, while Luka Potocar begins his race struggling to manage the very physical movements of the first block.

10:16
Hamish McArthur starts his Olympics by managing to make headway on on the first very physical block. After scoring 10 points, he decides to finish 1 minute early to conserve energy.

10:11
Second out Campbell Harrison struggles on the powerful start. No zone for him either.

10:05
The comp starts Mel Janse Van Rensburg, on the right side of the wall. The first athlete out struggles, and it's clear that the start will not be easy.

9:59
First up Boulder & Lead, and as usual the action kicks off with Boulder. 7000 spectators, temperatures are pleasant and the Boulder Wall is in the shade. Climbing is back at the Olympics!

9:30
After Tokyo 2020, sport climbing begins its second Olympic adventure today. Action kicks off at 10.00am with Men's Boulder & Lead semi-final. Join planetmountain for the latest sport climbing news from the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. The athletes competing today are:

MEN'S BOULDER & LEAD
Jakob Schubert (AUT) - 1. World Championships Bern 2023
Colin Duffy (USA) - 2. World Championships Bern 2023
Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) - 3. World Championships Bern 2023
Toby Roberts (GBR) - 1. European Qualifier Laval 2023
Jesse Grupper (USA) - 1. Pan American Games Santiago 2023
Sorato Anraku (JPN) - 1. Asian Qualifier Jakarta 2023
Campbell Harrison (AUS) - 1. Oceania Qualifier Melbourne 2023
Mel Janse Van Rensburg (RSA) - 1. African Qualifier Pretoria 2023
Dohyun Lee (KOR) - 1. Olympic Qualifier Series
Sam Avezou (FRA) - 2. Olympic Qualifier Series
Adam Ondra (CZE) - 3. Olympic Qualifier Series
Alberto Ginés López (ESP) - 4. Olympic Qualifier Series
Hannes Van Duysen (BEL) - 5. Olympic Qualifier Series
Paul Jenft (FRA) - 6. Olympic Qualifier Series
Yannick Flohé (GER) - 8. Olympic Qualifier Series
Hamish McArthur (GBR) - 9. Olympic Qualifier Series
Sascha Lehmann (SUI) - 10. Olympic Qualifier Series
Alexander Megos (GER) - 11. Olympic Qualifier Series
Luka Potocar (SLO) - 12. Olympic Qualifier Series
Pan Yufei (CHN) - 13. Olympic Qualifier Series

WOMEN'S SPEED
Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (INA) - 1. World Championships Bern 2023
Emma Hunt (USA) - 2. World Championships Bern 2023
Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) - 1. European Qualifier Rome 2023
Piper Kelly (USA) - 1. Pan American Games Santiago 2023
Lijuan Deng (CHN) - 1. Asian Qualifier Jakarta 2023
Sarah Tetzlaff (NZL) - 1. Oceania Qualifier Melbourne 2023
Aniya Holder (RSA) - African Qualifier Pretoria 2023
Yafei Zhou (CHN) - 1. Olympic Qualifier Series
Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) - 2. Olympic Qualifier Series
Rajiah Sallsabillah (INA) - 3. Olympic Qualifier Series
Capucine Viglione (FRA) - 7. Olympic Qualifier Series
Manon Lebon (FRA) - 10. Olympic Qualifier Series
Leslie Adriana Romero Pérez (ESP) - 12. Olympic Qualifier Series
Beatrice Colli (ITA) - 13. Olympic Qualifier Series