Toru Nakajima repeats Tokoyo 8C at Kasagi in Japan

When you think of Japanese climbers, evergreen Yuji Hirayama springs immediately to mind, as do young Sachi Amma and Akiyo Noguchi (winners respectively of the 2012 Lead World Cup and 2009 Bouldering World Cup), Dai Koyamada - one of the most talented boulderers of all times - and more recently the highly talented Tomoko Ogawa who, just a few months ago, checked in with the first female 8B+ boulder problem.

Obviously this short list is nothing more than the tip of the iceberg of the Japanese sports climbing movement. A tip of excellence, which is now joined by 19-year-old Toru Nakajima who on Christmas day managed to repeat Tokoyo, the difficult problem at Kasagi described by the first ascentionist Dai Koyamada as one of his best ever. In the video you can clearly see why: after a furious start on small crimps, the moves finish up a great fist crack. Decidedly unusual for a problem graded 8C!