Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger

At the end of 2009 the 22-year-old Austrian Alex Luger managed the second ascent of Prinzip Hoffnung, the trad route on the Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg first ascended by Beat Kammerlander and graded (8b/8b+, E9-E10).

Prinzip Hoffnung!
di Alex Luger
On Sunday 6 December 2009 I managed to make the first clean repeat of Prinzip Hoffnung, and climbing such a line in the "cleanest" of styles represents a dream come trues. After the first sporadic attempts on toprope in Spring 2009 I was bewitched by the route, but the rise in temperatures, ideal for swimming, drove me off to the "big" rock faces, with the hope of capitalising on some colder weather.

In November I concentrated on my studies but with my thoughts I was constantly on the slab, wondering whether I'd have enough gear to dare leading it? Wondering where to place the pro? And where to save energy? And which placement I could do without? The next weekend I drove directly to the route, abseiled down it and checked out the pro. At the base I was overwhelmed with joy, because with this sort of pro the route had become justifiable and therefore real. I quickly realised that an attempt from below wasn't far off, and the feeling of joy gave way to tension.

Althought throughout the following week I was physically in Innsbruck, in my thoughts I was permanently on the route. I phoned Florian on Friday evening to ask whether he'd accompany me the next day, and Saturday morning I was there, tied in to two half-ropes, my harness laden with gear. Beat was my second, trusted belayer.

I set off and with the first moves my state of consciousness changed abruptly, life became very simple - reduced to here and now. I reached a level of extreme concentration and awareness, the focus was on the next move, on placing the next pro. Suddenly I was ripped out of this state, I fell and hung in the rope as my heart skipped a beat. Wow, the Rp had held my unintended fall. I needed a break and pulled myself together again mentally, then tried the route once more - unsuccessfully.

That evening my mind told me eat and tank up some energy, but I was so excited I couldn't eat a single bite. The next day I was physically tired after a sleepless night and the previous attempts, but mentally even stronger. I tied in once more, the thermometer read -4 Grad Celsius and what followed was a perfect fight - a perfect moment!

From my point of view trad climbing is a very personal affair. Taking personal responsibility, being completely aware of the possible outcome and having faith in ones ability are all the basis for development, for personal growth. I personally consume experiences like that on Prinzip Hoffnung for a long time to come. Thanks to Beat, Flo and Christoph for the motivation from below. And thanks also to my sponsors Adidas, La Sportiva, DMM

Beat Kammerlander climbing Prinzip Hoffnung, Bürser Platte, Bürs, Vorarlberg, Austria.