Federica Mingolla climbs old projects in Valle dell’Orco, Italy

I've been returning to Valle Orco for almost 5 years; I was introduced to this valley by Adriano Trombetta, a mountain guide and good friend, and it really was love at first sight. I can’t actually put my finger on it, but whenever I think about this valley, the words "home" and "family" spring to mind. I’ve got lots of friends here, have experienced moments of pure happiness and this is why this valley holds a very special place in my heart.

The rock is similar to granite but not quite as pure as that on Mont Blanc, making the climbing extremely demanding, as the much-needed friction is often completely absent. This means careful footwork is required, as well as the ability to crimp tiny edges, often as sharp as razor blades.

But it’s not just the rock, and its rich Nuovo Mattino climbing movement history, that attract me to this valley, but it is the place itself! It's paradise! Beautiful mountains above Lake Ceresole, trees with wildly coloured leaves, lush alpine meadows that surround the few houses in the tiny villages, huge yellow or gray towering rock faces, as smooth as marble quarries...

This is perhaps the reason why I've climbed several single and multi-pitches that few others have done. At times I’ve even bagged a first free ascent, such as Occhi Nuovi and KTM on the formidable Sergent rock face. These single-pitches require precision and technique and a style of climbing that could easily be defined as démodé, no longer in fashion. I don’t think I was the first because they’re particularly difficult, in fact I graded both 8a+, so they're by no means near the limit. No, I reckon I was the first because this type of climbing is no longer in vogue, people more often than not prefer to climb on limestone, which almost never fails to gratify.

It has to be said that we’re now in the 21st century, nowadays people train mainly at indoor climbing gyms that are great at teaching you how to move on limestone, but less good at dealing with the intricate moves found on granite and, in particular, in Valle dell'Orco.

The climbing up here is different, old school, very mental and less physical. It's the style I like most because it’s a continuous quest for how to breach sections that seem impossible at first, before suddenly becoming feasible after numerous attempts or when conditions become favourable.

There are still a large number of climbs waiting for their first free ascent because many routes were established in the past with the use of aid. I’ll certainly continue to visit the Orco valley and search out these delicate vertical games. And I'll obviously be happy to share thoughts and ideas with those who come to repeat these routes, up here in magical Valle dell'Orco.

by Federica Mingolla

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