'Via Teti' added to Cima Busazza in Italy by Emanuele Andreozzi, Andrea Gremes

After several recces, Emanuele Andreozzi and I decided to open this short route on the north face of Busazza. It's an extremely satisfying climb, dedicated to my uncle Stefano, nicknamed 'Teti' by everyone, who passed away prematurely.

The climb takes place on solid alpine ice and good-quality rock. The gully follows a line of corners and cracks that wind their way up the wall, on terrain that never exceeds 85°.

The first pitch climbs a thin layer of alpine ice, the consistency of which should be assessed carefully as it is not possible to protect oneself for about twenty meters. Alternatively, you can climb the first pitch of the adjacent route, Tra cuore e pensiero, established by our friends Martin Giovanazzi and Davide Miori, and then traverse towards the obvious boulder where you can belay below the second pitch.

The M5 pitch requires being good at placing pro, and provides a technical move to leave the belay of the 4th pitch, which is very exposed. For the rest of the route, the granite almost always accepts a good selection of nuts and cams.

From the end of our route, after passing the ridge, you reach the northwest face where it is possibile to follow Via Dibona, past corners and cracks, to reach the summit after another four or five pitches.