Pelmo SW Direct repeat by Roverato and Matteraglia
On 1-2/07 Alessio Roverato and Luca Matteraglia repeated the Diretta alla parete Sud Ovest on Mt. Pelmo (Dolomites). First ascended in 1977 by Franco Miotto, Riccardo Bee and Giovanni Groaz, the route had been repeated only once in 1986.
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 A fortnight ago the two 22 year olds Alessio Roverato and Luca Matteraglia made a rare third ascent of Diretta Sud Ovest on Mt. Pelmo, Dolomites. The 650m route dates back to 1977 when Franco Miotto, Riccardo Bee and Giovanni Groaz first explored a line up the exceptional yellow face, grading the route 6+ A3. The second ascent (and contemporarily the first winter ascent) dates back to 1986, when Flavio Appi and two Slovenians, Ronkovic and Rukic overcame the wall in a three day push from 15 - 17 January. Miotto, who in 1977 was 45, knew the Dolomites like the back of his pocket. The line is testament to his exceptional intuition and route finding skills, and last weekend he returned, unbeknown to Roverato and to Matteraglia, to watch the duo make the third ascent. Roverato and Matteraglia climbed slowly but surely up the loose line and improvised a bivy 100m below the summit to top out safely on 2 July.  THE ROUTEMonte Pelmo (Dolomites) SW Face "DIRETTA SUD-OVEST" F.A.: Franco Miotto, Riccardo Bee, Giovanni Groaz 1977 First repeat: Flavio Appi (Ita), Ronkovic and Rukic (Slo) 15-17/01/86 Second repeat: Alessio Roverato, Luca Matteraglia 1/2 July 2006 Length: 650m Face: SW Grade: VI+, A3 Pitches: P1 IV, P2 IV+, P3 IV, P4 V, P5 V+, Cengia di Grohman, P6 V+, P7 VI, P8 V+, A2, P9 VI+, A2, P10 V, A2, P11 A3, VI, P12 A2, VI, P13 VI, P14 A3, V+, P15 A2, VI+, P16 V+. left: the line of ascent from the Grohman ledge  FLASH INTERVIEWby Vinicio Stefanello Alessio, why this "forgotten route" Because the first ascent was made by a great person And... Because you don't necessarily have to follow the flow to search for adventure The most beautiful aspect of the SW Face? The yellow wall... impressive and spectacular And the bivvy... A great experience, fundamental for the future. What attracted you most about this ascent The daring and incredible line. What amazed you most? What Miotto managed to do in 1977 You thoughts re the SW Face Maximum concentration... What's the rock like? Not really very solid. At times it's a mystery how it remains in one piece. The surprise meeting with Miotto after the ascent A dream come true!
Photos:the face above the Grohman ledge; Alessio Roverato, Franco Miotto and Luca Matteraglia united together after the second repeat. |
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