| In April Massimo Farina and Patrick Gabarrou opened "Ice for good" and "Fantastica", two new mixed routes on the Aiguille du Tacul, Grandes Jorasses. Together with Ezio Marlier Gabarrou then climbed "Poisson d'Avril" on the Seracco del Col des Hirondelles. Aiguille du Tacul 3444 m
Ice for good
Length 450m
Grade 4/IV/A1+/M
FA: M. Farina, Patrick Gabarrou (02/04/02)
P1: Climb up the wide gully , to another smaller gully. Belay on the outcrop.
P2: Climb the narrow gully in the back of the corner. Mixed, difficult to protect climbing leads to another outcrop with sling.
P3: Follow the easier guly up mixed terrain.
P4: Aided due to lack of ice (90°/95°). Belay on outcrop.
P5: Climb the gully (70°) that leads to the obvious gully and the summit. Belay on outcrop on ledge.
Follow snow gully (or ice) to the col to the left of the summit, 250 mt. 55-60°.
Descent: climb back down the wide gully and then abseil down the route.
Gear: 5 short ice screws, 10 pegs:KB-LA-corner and friends (up to 2.5) nuts and aiders. 60m rope.
Approach: 1.20 - 2.00 from Lescaux
Aiguille du Tacul 3444m
Fantastica
Length 300m
Grade 4+/IV/M/R
FA: M. Farina, Patrick Gabarrou (03/04/02)
P1: Start beneath the narrow corner (25-30 cm) in the gully> Belay at in-situ nut.
P2: Climb the icy slab up mixed ground to narrow gully (just 20 cm wide) to ledge. Belay on outcrop.
P3: Easy start leads to gully and delicate and unprotected mixed moves. Belay on ledge (1 in-situ peg on pitch and 1 on belay)
P4: Delicate icy corner start, then more easy finish to rocky outcrop.
P5: easy start then diagonal left mixed traverse. Difficult to protect (alternative direct exit up ice ). Continue up iced corner to peg and sling belay.
P6: easy gully that peters out onto the face
Descent: abseil down the route
Approach: 5 short ice screws, friends (up to 2.5), 5/6 pegs. 2 60m ropes.
Col des Hirondelles
Poisson d'Avril
Length 420m
Grade 4+/V/seracco
FA: M. Farina, E. Marlier, Patrick Gabarrou (01/04/02)
Serac del Col des Hirondelles
Cross the bergschrund and climb the ice or snow slope beneath the serac to belay directly beneath this. (300 m, 60°/65°).
P1: 60 m 85°/90° - ice belay
P2: 60 m 80°/85° to the end of the hard climbing
P3: 30 m top out onto the Col
Descent: abseil down the colouir to the left of the serac. Loose rock at the start.
Gear: ice climbing rack
Approach: 2.30 - 3.00 hours from Lescaux
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Aiguille du Tacul: Ice for good takes the right-hand line, while Fantastica the left.
Massimo Farina climbing on the Aiguille du Tacul
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