New mixed climb 'Birthday Crack' in Langental, Dolomites

Daniel Ladurner reports about the first ascent, carried out with Mathieu Maynadier and Francesco Favilli on 5 January 2024, of the mixed route 'Birthday Crack' in Vallunga / Langental, Dolomites, Italy. A way to remember Favilli, who died tragically in the mountains this summer along with Filippo Zanin.
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The first ascent of 'Birthday Crack' in Langental, Dolomites (Francesco Favilli, Daniel Ladurner, Mathieu Maynadier 05/01/2024)
Daniel Ladurner

It's the 5th of January 2024, Francesco Favilli's birthday. We meet early in the morning in the Dolomites, up at the Langental car park. A few days earlier Mathieu Maynadier had noticed a line while paragliding, I wasn't entirely sure if enough ice had formed but he was convinced and actually he's right!

Despite the freezing temperatures, Francesco gets out of the car with a warm hug and a happy smile. His positive and happy approach to life makes setting off from the car park much easier. We have a quick look at one of the latest prototypes of boots he's developed. Mathieu puts them on. During the pleasant approach along the well-trodden trail through Langental, we philosophize about life in general and when we catch sight of the line we can't help but notice the sparkle in Francesco's eyes.

Although he was a very talented rock climber, he had climbed a little less on ice. Mathieu leads the first pitch, then it's my turn. Francesco then tackles the steep tunnel crusted with ice, brings us back to daylight and manages to establish what is probably the most beautiful and also one of the most spectacular pitches in the entire valley.

His eyes shine bright with joy when we reach the end of the route and all three of us are elated to have successfully added a route to the Langental, protected by ice gear and a handful of pegs. After the abseil and the return to the car we celebrate our new route, Birthday Crack, with a proper birthday cake and a "summit beer" at the bar.

That 5th of January could not have been better. Back then, no one could have imagined that not even six months later we'd lose Francesco together with Filippo in a tragic accident in the mountains. You'll forever be in our hearts.

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