Lhotse ascent for Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich

On 16/05 Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich summite Lhotse (8516m). Nives Meroi is now the most successful living female mountaineer.

Planetmountain.com

May 2004

Traduci in

On Sunday 16 May Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich reached the summit of Lhotse (8516m), the fourth highest mountain in the world. The trio did not use supplementary oxygen and Lhotse, after Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak last year, is now the seventh 8000m peak to be climbed by Meroi and Benet. Luca Vuerich has successfully summited four 8000ers, while Meroi is now the most successful living female mountaineer.

This early ascent bodes well for the three, who now plan to move across the border to Pakistan, where they will team up with the K2 2004 expedition and attempt an ascent of K2's hostile North Face.

The ascent report (with news sent via satellite telephone from Luca Vuerich at Camp 4 and compiled by Leila Meroi):

"Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich left base Camp on Friday 14 April and climbed up to Camp 2 at 6500m. On Saturday morning the continued up to Camp 4 (7800m) where they spent the night, in the hope of recovering for the summit push the next day. Unfortunately tension and general fatigue stopped them from getting much sleep, nevertheless they departed at first light on Sunday morning (04.00 Nepalese time) for the summit.

Romano Benet was the first to reach the summit of Lhotse was (8501 mt) at 12.00 Nepalese time, followed by Nives Meroi and Luca Vuerich. The ascent was not particularly difficult but extremely long and tiring - the weather was fine and there was not too much fresh snow.

Once on the summit the weather worsened (wind and poor visibility) and the three decided to return to Camp 4 immediately. They spent the night there, rehydrated and rested. They should return to Base Camp today, and Alessandro Di Lenardo, Walter Stroppolo andÂ Marina Vuerich will be there waiting for them.

As usual Nives, Romano and Luca climbed in alpine style, without oxygen or high altitude porters, in line with the philosophy and style of ascent that distinguishes them.

With this most recent ascent Nives enters the record books of female Himalayan climbing, as at present she is only living woman to have climbed a staggering seven 8000m peaks. Furthermore, she is one of the few women to have reached the summit of Lhotse, and extremely demanding mountain both from a technical a psychological point of view."