I wanted silence. Ivo Ferrari climbs via Gregis, Presolana Orientale

It started with a stiff walk, steep and difficult, like a vertical kilometer - one of those beautiful and destructive competitions that are gaining in popularity (everyone seems to run these days).

We ascended from the south the climb on the north face, a trip through the less frequented folds of a popular peak. To those who have eyes for rocks only, sunny Monte Visolo means little, its endless green alpine meadows crossed by a steep path that zigzags up its flanks. In winter it offers superb skiing, in summer it’s a really tiresome undertaking!

One step after the next leads towards the summit, Paul in front, me trailing behind. We reach the top and drop down onto the other side, to the beautiful NW Face of Eastern Presolana, past the characteristic Fopu! All the while sweating and panting... But silence needs to be earned!

I know this place, years back a friend and I repeated a route put up by the Dalla Longa brothers, now though we want to take a step back in time, to forty-two years ago.

What a sight, what a sublime day! I could use an infinite number of adjectives to try to explain... but I immediately got committed on the first pitch, an overhanging bulge which for my arms meant aid climbing, slings, reach, clip… A good start, just what you need for an early morning pump!

The logic of the line is unique, straight up into the sky past corners, slabs and cracks, superb rock mixed with holds that wobble... great "alpinism"... or maybe just great climbing!

Three hundred meters split into nine pitches, old pegs mingle with new and not so new stuff… The fog swirls around us, but Presolana is good with us today, perhaps she takes pity on our climbing style.

Paolo sets off up the long crack, the yellow rock speaks volumes, but the magic, famous Presolana pockets reduce the real difficulties... everything’s under control (for the time being!).

I’m not going to dwell on the pitches, this would bore both you and me… instead I’d like to take this opportunity to recommend this route, this face... this silence that, sometimes, is so difficult to hear... As years pass climbing seems become so similar but then, just around the corner, I discover a gem that recharges my batteries and sparks the flame to search for something that can be found!

I sit on top, tired ... and my gaze is already elsewhere, towards something blurred to my eyes, but clear in my head. The next "adventure".

Presolana Orientale via Gregis. Not recommended only to the squeamish! Check it out for yourself.

by Ivo Ferrari

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