Florian Riegler deals with Sick and Tired, new mixed climb at Gampenpass Cave
Back in 2010, while climbing Gratta and Vinci with my brother Martin, I noticed this small cave. At that time we also stumbled across some old pegs and bolts, someone had probably climbed here in the past ... Back then we established a new route ground-up and we also climbed the ice at the top.
Unfortunately though I failed to free the entire line and a few days later I suffered frostbite after having made a winter ascent of Checkmate on Gran Zebrù. The ice climbing season in winter 2010 came to an abrupt end.
Seven years later and I was keen on climbing some mixed routes once again! Since the cave is only 30 minutes drive from Bozen, Martin and I created 2 more routes in order to climb not far from home. The climbs are equipped as sports routes, with bolts and with a chain at the top. The overhanging routes have insitu quickdraws.
Access:Drive over the Lana Pass and continue towards Gampenpass, then towards the hamlet Gfrill. The cave can be seen from here. Park the car after a bridge at the end of the village, in a leftwards curve. Walk to the cave in about 50 minutes. There is no path.
by Florian Riegler
Thanks: C.A.M.P., La Sportiva,
Link: FB Riegler Brothers, www.mmarts.at
TOPO: Grotta Gampenpass