Corona Clean climbed in Val Travenanzes, Dolomites, by Simon Kehrer and Lukas Troi

On 20 February 2020 the South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Lukas Troi made the first ascent of Corona Clean, a short but intense mixed climb established without bolts and without pegs in Val Travenanzes, Dolomites. The conditions that winter were perfect and during a repeat of Il soffio di Horus Kehrer and Troi realised that it was perhaps possible to continue upwards for one more pitch.

Kehrer explained “While repeating the interesting and spectacular mixed climb "Il soffio di Horus" with my friend and colleague Lukas Troi we reached the exit, below the overhanging bulge full of pockets, above which lay a huge icicle. "It seems possible…” is what I thought to myself and immediately asked Lukas if we shouldn't perhaps give it a go. Lukas was thrilled with the idea and told me to set off. No hammer nor ice screws were dangling from my harness… but it was worth a try!

A small section of ice at the start, then one pocket after the next up through the overhang, unfortunately almost all bottomless. But I didn't have to "knock" too much with the hard steel blades, the threads opened up easily and with them the possibility to climb to the top. This gear, plus another 4/5 Totem cams ranging from purple to orange, proved adequate. I bridge wide to reach the drip, climbed delicately for a few more meters, then reached the saving belay." Troi seconded and then the pair abseiled off "happy and satisfied."

TOPO: Corona Clean, Val Travenanzes

Simon thanks SCARPA, Edelrid, Vaude, www.simon-kehrer.it, alpenverein.it