Combe Maudite, two new ice and mixed climbs by Enrico Bonino & Co

Without a doubt, this is the year for Combe Maudite! Unusual conditions in the autumn have once again revealed an amphitheatre which is, undeservedly, little-visited and little-known. Routes like Baxter Jones, Lacrima degli angeli, Surcouf, Reve Caché and Filo d'Arianna have been dusted down whilst new routes have taken shape, like Saumons et Glacons and An...ice surprise, both climbed by yours truly.

The first route has more of a "modern-plaisir" feel to it, graded as M5+ WI5 R with sections of ephemeral ice, some mixed moves and equipped belays, it is just nicely challenging (but not to be underestimated) and there's not too much to battle with should problems arise; it was first climbed during a high-mountain mixed climbing course with Olivier Colaye and Luca Breveglieri. The line runs parallel to the already well-known Filo d'Arianna, following the same access gully before taking the slender line to the left which is hidden by rocky overhangs. The result is 250m of gully plus 250m of a steeper couloir. The merits of this climb are its beauty, its continuity and a more favourable exposure compared to its neighbouring route.

The second route was first climbed with the very gifted Giulia Venturelli, in the search for a logical, difficult route with a modern-mixed flavour to it, where the challenge to free climb it tested us both right to the end, endeavouring to solve seemingly unpassable sections. The team spirit and enthusiasm during the climb was fantastic, we alternated pitches, each of us adding our own individual skills and experience to the rope. The icing on the cake was the discovery of elegant couloirs, with much more to offer than expected higher up the face. Plus a string of hidden, embedded frozen corners.

After our first attempt towards the end of October was thwarted when faced with a solid wall without the right gear, we came back a few days later armed with copperheads, rurps and micro blades. The day got off to a great start freeing the M7 crux on our first attempt. Having reached the deadlock point I couldn't wait to get my first copperheads into that blind crack which had forced us back the first time. The section of aid climbing was pretty straightforward, with a bit of "craftsmanship" I got past the solid wall to find myself faced with a smooth, open corner. Clearly, the fun wasn't over yet. There were still 6 metres between me and the belay and they pushed me right to the end, with no option but to free climb.

Giulia skilfully solved the next pitch, with a decidedly tough dry-tooling start which leads to snowier terrain. It was 16.45 when I joined her at the belay. There wasn't much daylight left, but by then the hardest part was done, it would have been pointless to go down and come back the following day so we decided to press ahead to the top.

A stunning icy couloir meant we could move quickly. Giulia joined me at the belay as it was getting dark. We had a quick break to eat, drink and get our head torches on before setting off again. Having a photo of the face with us was crucial for working out where to go. There were so many possibilities. Giulia climbed a few metres and moved to the left of a buttress trying to find an embedded dihedral which from the photo seemed to be dusted in snow. In actual fact it was well-stocked and really spectacular, one of those ones which you wish would never end. It was pitch black when I climbed the pitch, without even the moon to guide us.

By our calculations we had reached the last pitch, and as chance would have it, even this one wasn't easy. A tough roof cut by an off-width crack gave me a run for my money, as did the inconsistent snow carried by the wind. It was tough not to give in to the temptation of a little rest on the rope...the route had been free-climbed up to that point and I didn't want this to rain on my parade. Summiiiiit! What a great feeling! The energy and ideology with which we had decided to approach this climb were really powerful. I have a huge amount of respect for the amazing Giulia, thank you for having joined me on this great adventure.

Thanks to the sponsors: S.C.A.R.P.A, Millet, Baroli Sport, Odyssee Montagne

by Enrico Bonino


TOPO: An... ice surprise, Combe Maudite, Mont Blanc


TOPO: Saumons et Glacons, Combe Maudite, Mont Blanc


Translation from Italian by Jane Ledlie. The original Italian report was first published here.