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Luca Zardini climbing The Big Mother 8c+, Erto.
Massimo da Pozzo
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a - 8c
Height
100
Routes number
81
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SE
Rope
70m
The steeply overhanging Erto has long been known as one of the hardest crags in Italy, hitting the limelight a few years ago with Luca Zardini’s first ascent of "The big Mother" (8c+). Thankfully most routes are somewhat easier than Zardini’s tespiece, but the routes require plenty of power and stamina, especially since the rock tends to be extremely polished. And thankfully the sector called “No big”, located just a few hundred meters away, has plenty of slab routes from 4a-7a+.
Access
From the south: take the A27 Mestre – Belluno motorway and exit at Longarone. Reach Longarone and then turn off right for Erto, Val Cellina and Pordenone. The crag springs into view after the tunnels and the Vajont dam. Logistics
Hotels in Longarone Period
Climbing is possible all year round as the overhang protects against the rain. Autumn and spring tend to e the best time of year, but climbing is also possible on sunny winter days. Climb
Steeply overhanging powerful routes Bibliography
Falesie delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. Con le falesie Coi, Val Barance, Igne, Cajada, Maè, Podenzoi, Malcolm, Teatro, Casso, Erto, Cimolais, Polpet, Val Galina, Soverzene, Soccher, Dolada, Teverone, Quantin, Fadalto Basso, Ceresera, Mas, Le Rosse, Mis, Val Canzoi, Le Perine, Fonzaso, Tarzan Wall
From the south: take the A27 Mestre – Belluno motorway and exit at Longarone. Reach Longarone and then turn off right for Erto, Val Cellina and Pordenone. The crag springs into view after the tunnels and the Vajont dam. Logistics
Hotels in Longarone Period
Climbing is possible all year round as the overhang protects against the rain. Autumn and spring tend to e the best time of year, but climbing is also possible on sunny winter days. Climb
Steeply overhanging powerful routes Bibliography
Falesie delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. Con le falesie Coi, Val Barance, Igne, Cajada, Maè, Podenzoi, Malcolm, Teatro, Casso, Erto, Cimolais, Polpet, Val Galina, Soverzene, Soccher, Dolada, Teverone, Quantin, Fadalto Basso, Ceresera, Mas, Le Rosse, Mis, Val Canzoi, Le Perine, Fonzaso, Tarzan Wall
Sectors
1 - 30
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La capra | 6b | ||
2 | Saten | 7a+ | ||
3 | W le donne | 6c+ | ||
4 | La cassana | 7b | ||
5 | Saputella | 7a+ | ||
6 | Tramonto Rosso | 7a | ||
7 | Dressage | ? | ||
8 | Occhi bugiardi | 7a | ||
9 | El pazo | 7b | ||
10 | Iron Butterfly | 7a | ||
11 | No comment | 7b | ||
12 | Pop-pon-pin | 7c | ||
13 | R.E.M. | 7b; All. 7c+ | ||
14 | Tortuga | 7b | ||
15 | Poltergeist | 8a+; L2P. | ||
16 | La canna (I.R.Z.E.) | 7a+ | ||
17 | Joker | 8a | ||
18 | Il ritorno di Ringo | 8b | ||
19 | L'Agna menia | 8a+ | ||
20 | Sperandio | 6b+ | ||
21 | La nipote | 7a+ | ||
22 | Brooklin | 6c | ||
23 | Freedent | 7a+/b | ||
24 | Super Phoenix | 7b | ||
25 | Mission | 7a | ||
26 | Sandriccio | 7c+ | ||
27 | Osa e riposa | 7c+/8a | ||
28 | Erto express | 8a/b | ||
29 | Mano di clown | 6c | ||
30 | Dito di clown | 7a |
31 - 51
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
31 | Cassiopea | 7c | ||
32 | Ombra del dubbio | 7b | ||
33 | La conchiglia | 8a | ||
34 | Super vip | 7c; All. 8a | ||
35 | 9 ottobre plastic day | 8a/8a+ | ||
36 | Bricolage | 8a+ | ||
37 | Sogni di gloria | 8b+ | ||
38 | The last way | 8c+ | ||
39 | The big mother | 8c+ | ||
40 | Mocho | 8b | ||
41 | Pole position | 8a | ||
42 | Variante di dx Pole... | 8b | ||
43 | Jurassic climb | 8b | ||
44 | Aikido | 8b | ||
45 | Tucson | 8a | ||
46 | Mister rase | 8a+ | ||
47 | Mister transfert | 8b | ||
48 | Cicutina | 7c+ | ||
49 | Stricnina | 7c; All. 8a | ||
50 | Lucrezia Borgia | 7b+; All. 7c | ||
51 | Ombre atomiche | 8a+ |
52 - 64
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
52 | L'Ertana | 7c | ||
53 | Free dog | 8a+/8b | ||
54 | Tropicana | 7c, 8a+ | ||
55 | Diretta pip crash | 7b | ||
56 | Pip crash | 6c+; All. 7a+ | ||
57 | Colpo di grazia | 7b; All. 7b+ | ||
58 | Acido lattico | 7c | ||
59 | Testimonio silenzioso | 8a/8a+ | ||
60 | Nothing life | 7c | ||
61 | Fumogena | 7c | ||
62 | Il mago del gelato | 8a+/8b | ||
63 | La mela di Odessa | 7b+ | ||
64 | Coco slip | 7b |
65 - 81
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
65 | Manolesta | 7a | ||
66 | Libellula rosa | 7a | ||
67 | Il telefono | 6b+ | ||
68 | Passera scopaiola | 6c | ||
69 | W Mao | 6b+ | ||
70 | Pipistrelli | 6b | ||
71 | Contessa | 7a | ||
72 | Principessa | 7b | ||
73 | Duchessa | 7a+ | ||
74 | Alien | 6b+ | ||
75 | Matha Hari | 6b | ||
76 | Pensionati | 6a+ | ||
77 | Molina | 6a | ||
78 | Orzoro | 6c | ||
79 | Tapioca | 7b | ||
80 | Filo da torcere | 7b | ||
81 | Giochi di pietra | 7a |
Comments
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a - 8c
Height
100
Routes number
81
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SE
Rope
70m
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