Roberto Casanova
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Luca Zardini climbing The Big Mother 8c+, Erto.
Massimo da Pozzo
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a - 8c
Height
100
Routes number
81
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SE
Rope
70m


The steeply overhanging Erto has long been known as one of the hardest crags in Italy, hitting the limelight a few years ago with Luca Zardini’s first ascent of "The big Mother" (8c+). Thankfully most routes are somewhat easier than Zardini’s tespiece, but the routes require plenty of power and stamina, especially since the rock tends to be extremely polished. And thankfully the sector called “No big”, located just a few hundred meters away, has plenty of slab routes from 4a-7a+.
Access
From the south: take the A27 Mestre – Belluno motorway and exit at Longarone. Reach Longarone and then turn off right for Erto, Val Cellina and Pordenone. The crag springs into view after the tunnels and the Vajont dam. Logistics
Hotels in Longarone Period
Climbing is possible all year round as the overhang protects against the rain. Autumn and spring tend to e the best time of year, but climbing is also possible on sunny winter days. Climb
Steeply overhanging powerful routes Bibliography
Falesie delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. Con le falesie Coi, Val Barance, Igne, Cajada, Maè, Podenzoi, Malcolm, Teatro, Casso, Erto, Cimolais, Polpet, Val Galina, Soverzene, Soccher, Dolada, Teverone, Quantin, Fadalto Basso, Ceresera, Mas, Le Rosse, Mis, Val Canzoi, Le Perine, Fonzaso, Tarzan Wall



Sectors

1 - 30
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 La capra 6b
2 Saten 7a+
3 W le donne 6c+
4 La cassana 7b
5 Saputella 7a+
6 Tramonto Rosso 7a
7 Dressage ?
8 Occhi bugiardi 7a
9 El pazo 7b
10 Iron Butterfly 7a
11 No comment 7b
12 Pop-pon-pin 7c
13 R.E.M. 7b; All. 7c+
14 Tortuga 7b
15 Poltergeist 8a+; L2P.
16 La canna (I.R.Z.E.) 7a+
17 Joker 8a
18 Il ritorno di Ringo 8b
19 L'Agna menia 8a+
20 Sperandio 6b+
21 La nipote 7a+
22 Brooklin 6c
23 Freedent 7a+/b
24 Super Phoenix 7b
25 Mission 7a
26 Sandriccio 7c+
27 Osa e riposa 7c+/8a
28 Erto express 8a/b
29 Mano di clown 6c
30 Dito di clown 7a
31 - 51
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
31 Cassiopea 7c
32 Ombra del dubbio 7b
33 La conchiglia 8a
34 Super vip 7c; All. 8a
35 9 ottobre plastic day 8a/8a+
36 Bricolage 8a+
37 Sogni di gloria 8b+
38 The last way 8c+
39 The big mother 8c+
40 Mocho 8b
41 Pole position 8a
42 Variante di dx Pole... 8b
43 Jurassic climb 8b
44 Aikido 8b
45 Tucson 8a
46 Mister rase 8a+
47 Mister transfert 8b
48 Cicutina 7c+
49 Stricnina 7c; All. 8a
50 Lucrezia Borgia 7b+; All. 7c
51 Ombre atomiche 8a+
52 - 64
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
52 L'Ertana 7c
53 Free dog 8a+/8b
54 Tropicana 7c, 8a+
55 Diretta pip crash 7b
56 Pip crash 6c+; All. 7a+
57 Colpo di grazia 7b; All. 7b+
58 Acido lattico 7c
59 Testimonio silenzioso 8a/8a+
60 Nothing life 7c
61 Fumogena 7c
62 Il mago del gelato 8a+/8b
63 La mela di Odessa 7b+
64 Coco slip 7b
65 - 81
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
65 Manolesta 7a
66 Libellula rosa 7a
67 Il telefono 6b+
68 Passera scopaiola 6c
69 W Mao 6b+
70 Pipistrelli 6b
71 Contessa 7a
72 Principessa 7b
73 Duchessa 7a+
74 Alien 6b+
75 Matha Hari 6b
76 Pensionati 6a+
77 Molina 6a
78 Orzoro 6c
79 Tapioca 7b
80 Filo da torcere 7b
81 Giochi di pietra 7a





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a - 8c
Height
100
Routes number
81
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SE
Rope
70m


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