Muzzerone Parete Centrale

Italy>Liguria>La Spezia>Portovenere
Davide Battistella
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archivio Davide Battistella
Muzzerone
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4c - 7c+
Height
40m
Routes number
96
Rock type
Excellent limestone.
Rope
70m


This is the most famous and popular crag in Muzzerone. Easy access and numerous routes of all grades render Parete Centrale ideal for beginners and families, who spend the entire day relaxing in the sun. The drawback: the easiest routes tend to be extremely polished. Parete Centrale was the first crag to be discovered in the Muzzerone area, thanks to the Italian Navy based in Le Grazie who in the 1970's bolted the first routes here. Numerous well bolted new routes have been added recently to this crag.

NOTA: As of 6/08/2014 the Comune di Porto Venere (La Spezia) has prohibited climbing on and access to Parete Centrale, Monte Muzzerone.
Access
Muzzerone is situated 15 km from La Spezia. Drive towards Portovenere and turn right before reaching Le Grazie (sign posted "Palestra di Roccia"). Follow this for 4km to a fork in the road: turn left and descend past several hairpin bends to Muzzerone. This can also be reached on foot via the panoramic sea paths from Portovenere (path No. 1 or 1a in 30 minutes). Logistics
Good refuge 20 mins from Muzzerone by car and 15 mins on foot via a panoramic path. The refuge contains 30 beds, a kitchen and large rooms ideal for lectures or lessons. The sea can be reached in about 20 mins from the refuge, and other paths that lead into the National Park start from here. - Cell. 340.8098720 ETTORE - Mail: rifugiomuzzerone@libero.it Period
Climbing is possible all year round thanks to the Mediterranean climate. All sectors face west and are therefore sheltered from the icy northern winds. Climbing is possible in summer by making use of the shade and the fresh afternoon Mistral. Climb
Excellent limestone on often painful edges and pockets. Highly technical and elegant climbing - good footwork essential. There are plenty of overhanging sectors, too. La Polveriera is great for stamina climbs up tufas, while Specchio di Atlantide requires finger strength and courage with its Verdonesque drop. Parete Striata remains uncontaminated and wild and is ideal for multi-pitch routes. Notes
The Muzzerone sea cliffs, situated high above Portovenere, form the extreme tip of the Cinque Terre National Park. This western flank of the Gulf of La Spezia is also known as the Gulf of the poets.

This area is characterised by silver pillars and white limestone faces that precipitate steeply into the sea, and a flora composed of maritime pines and plants typically associated with the Mediterranean environment.

So why visit this area? Because Muzzerone is an area of quite incredible natural beauty. Its cliffs fall steeply into the blue sea, offering marvellous routes and a fantastic spectacle; seagull, raven and falcon display their ability in highly evocative surroundings. Almost all sectors are difficult to reach and this is perhaps the reason why Muzzerone is never overcrowded, since in the past climbers have preferred other crags such as nearby Finale Ligure.

Since climbing is much more than an athletic gesture, Muzzerone is best suited for those in search of bolts, micro-edges and, above all, nature. This element definitely abounds here.

Recommended sectors (540 routes in total)
1. Garimpo
2. Parete Centrale
3. Polveriera
4. Specchio di Atlantide
5. Atlantide Bassa
6. Parete Striata

Other crags within a 50 km radius:
Monte Marcello: 15 km from La Spezia, 21 routes from 5c to 7c
Gabellaccia: 40 km from La Spezia, 60 routes up to 8b+
Deiva Marina: 40 km. from La Spezia, 40 routes from 5a to 7c
Punta Manara: 50 km from La Spezia, 60 routes from 5a to 7b+
Moneglia: 45 km from La Spezia, 20 routes up to 7a
Aiola: 50 km from La Spezia, 30 routes from 6a to 7b Bibliography
Muzzerone e Levante Ligure Arrampicate sportive by Davide Battistella, Edizione Versante sud



Sectors

Parete sx
Small crag in a panoramic setting. Recommended:
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Enfant prodige 10m 6a
2 Mangia fuoco 10m 5c
3 Sghigiolina 10m 5c
4 Ezechiele 10m 6a
5 Michelangelo 15m 5a
6 Raffaello 15m 5b
7 Donatello 15m 5c
8 Leonardo 15m 5a
9 Splinter 10m 6a+
10 Cowabunga 10m 5c
11 Mutanti 10m 5c
12 Carmen 15m 6b
13 Prima alla scala 15m 6a
14 Argentina 15m 6b
15 Trappola per topi 20m 6b
16 Ercolino sempre in piedi 20m 6c
17 Denim 20m 6c
18 Trezu 25m 6c
19 As fidanken 25m 6b
20 Pissi pissi bau bau 25m 6a+
21 Anarchia 20m 6c+
22 Gonna fly now 20m 6c+
23 Totano lesso 10m 7b+
24 Flipper 25m 6b+
25 Delirium post mortem 20m 7c
26 Futura 20m 6c
27 Pierao meravigliao 20m 6c
28 Pippi calze lunghe 20m 6c
29 Torna a casa lassy 20m 6b
30 C.V.D 20m 6b
31 Stratagoing 20m 7a+
32 Buon proseguimento 15m 7b+
33 Mamy on sight 25m 7b
34 Morte subito 40m 6b+, 7b+, 7b
35 Mortiria 25m 7a+
36 Gilbert 15m 7a+
37 Mission impossibile 15m 7a+
38 Tritacarne 15m 5c
39 Brutta fasenda 15m 6b+
40 Salto mortale 20m 7b+
41 Variante 10m 6b+
42 Rimedius 15m 6a+
43 Che serà serà 15m 6b
44 Barabino 35m 5c, 6b+
45 Banzai 15m 7c+
46 Punzuli e lamelle 35m 5b, 6c+
47 Tacchinetor 15m 6c+
48 Balle gonfie 15m 6c+
49 Via Lidia 35m 5c, 6a
50 A due passi dalla Lidia 15m 5b
51 Niente per caso 20m 7a+
52 Corrado penna 20m 6b
53 L'aviatore 15m 6c
54 Corsaro 15m 5c
55 Kriptonite 15m 7a+
56 Primi passi 15m 5a
57 Spit e span 15m 6a+
58 Bellaria 30m 5b
59 Retorica 25m 5b
60 Dita di burro 20m 5c
61 Luna 20m 5b
62 Cozza isterica 15m 5c
63 Triceratopo 30m 5b
64 Via dell'ospite 15m 4c
86 9m 1
Parete centrale
Small crag in a panoramic setting. Recommended:
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
65 Via i Russi dalla Polonia 20m 5c
66 Tarzan2 15m 7a
67 Gravit-danza 15m 6b
68 Romeo 15m 6b+
69 I diedrini 25m 5c
70 Ritmo lento 10m 5c
71 Diretta 20m 5c
72 Lo spancio 25m 5c
73 Blocco precipitato 10m 5b
74 Variante alta 15m 6a+
75 Ombre elettriche 10m 6a
76 Overcraft 20m 5c
77 Lo spigolo 20m 5c
78 Tarzan 15m 5c
79 Il camino 10m 4c
80 Vile vil coyote 10m 6a
Parete dx
Small crag in a panoramic setting. Recommended:
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
81 Le lumache pietrificate 10m 7b
82 Conte Max 20m 5a
83 Andropausa 10m 5a
84 Basinger 10m 5a
85 Zip 20m 4c
86 Via dell'allievo 20m 5c
87 Oscar 20m 4c
88 Delicatessen 15m 7a+
89 The last wall 15m 6b
90 Il diedro 20m 5b
91 Rimba 20m 6b+
92 Lo spigolino 20m 7a
93 Vavavumba 20m 7a+
94 Hand grip 15m 6c
95 Metalhurlant 10m 7a
96 Phnom phen 15m 7c+





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4c - 7c+
Height
40m
Routes number
96
Rock type
Excellent limestone.
Rope
70m


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