La Terrazza
Pietrabissara is a small village at the foot of the Ligurian Apennines that has always been inhabited by quarrymen. The numerous quarries surrounding this tiny village are ample proof of this. I personally got to know this area thanks to the last quarryman of Pietrabissara, Gigetto, who passed away more than 10 years ago.
This person, linked to the Puddingstone because of his work and where he lived, accompanied me as I searched the quarries, explaining in detail how they had been excavated and until when they had beeb in use. I started bolting sport climbs in 1994 and now, together with Andre and Charlie, we’ve picked up on the past and we’re currently rebolting the crags.
La Terrazza, the terrace, was the first crag - it dates back to 1999 and it was in that year that Filippo Larceri freed the cliff’s hardest route. Andrea Casarino, Charlie Cabella and I are currently reequipping the towers close to La Terrazza.
Thanks to Gigetto and the crags which, until 70 years ago, ended up being ballast for the railways. And thanks also to the Tana del Geko at Voghera which has provided us with the gear.
The area can be reached from Genoa by exiting the motorway at Isola del Cantone, or from Piedmont by exiting at Vignole and continuing towards Pietrabissara. From Pietrabissara continue towards Borlasca, after about two kilometers turn left for Villa. After about 100m park on the right. Follow the path uphill, marked with a white "T", join a mule track and turn left, follow this for 50 meters and then turn left close to a lookout and scramble down the fixed ropes. 10 minutes from the car.
PeriodSun in the morning, until 13.
NotesBolting: glue-in and stainless steel bolts. The crag is a great alternative to nearby Gavi.
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | W la puddinga | 12m | 6b | |
G.P. Rivara 1999 | ||||
2 | Manseratt | 12m | 6a | |
G.P. Rivara 2015 | ||||
3 | Margaloff | 12m | 6c+ | |
G.P. Rivara 1999 | ||||
4 | Fisting | 12m | 6c | |
G.P. Rivara 2015 | ||||
5 | Kiss my sass | 18m | 6b | |
G.P. Rivara, C.Cabella 2015 | ||||
6 | Canna fumante…..documentos porfavor. | 18m | 8a+ | |
G.P. Rivara, F.Larceri 1999 | ||||
7 | Canna fumata | 12m | 7a+ | |
G.P. Rivara 1999 | ||||
8 | Canna fumaria | 10m | 7a + | |
G.P. Rivara 1999 | ||||
9 | Emisfero giallo | 12m | 7a+ | |
G.P. Rivara 2015 | ||||
10 | Il Condottiero | 15m | 7c | |
G.P. Rivara 1999 | ||||
11 | Gran Condottiero | 20m | 7c+ | |
G.P. Rivara 2015 | ||||
12 | Luna Bomb | 20m | 7b+ | |
G.P. Rivara 2015 | ||||
13 | Bellatrix | 25m | 7b+ | |
A.Casarino, S.Morchio 2015 | ||||
14 | Le quattro nobili verità | 20m | 6c+ | |
C.Cabella 2015 | ||||
15 | Stop chemtrails | 20m | 7b | |
C.Cabella 2015 | ||||
16 | Amico dei gay | 20m | 7a | |
A.Casarino, S.Morchio 2015 | ||||
17 | Alchimista | 25m | nl | |
A.Casarino, S.Morchio 2015 |