La Severina - Palinuro

Italy>Campania>Salerno>San Severino
Rolando Larcher
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Rolando Larcher climbing Roccia Gloriosa at the crag La Severina (Palinuro)
Luigi Merola
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6b - 8b+
Routes number
30
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
East
Rope
80m


La Severina is a splendid crag close to the ruins of the medieval village San Severino, an overhanging forest of stalactites. The starts of the climbs are on suspended ledges, equipped and connected with fixed ropes and ring bolts. Although the ledges are relatively wide, they are not recommended for families with children

Access

Reach San Severino, part of the municipality of Centola, Cilento. Park at the bend from where the path leads to the abandoned medieval village of San Severino. Follow the steps to about 30m from the square piazza della Chiesetta. At this point, on the left, you can clearly make out the only passable point between the outcrops that leads to the grassy ridge below. Climb over the railing and follow the track to the ridge and from here continue heading downwards towards the sea, until you reach a spur. From here it is possible to see the cliff. Continue diagonally along the track, slightly uphill, to reach the base of the cliff. Approach: 15-20 minutes.

Logistics

Highly recommended: Restaurant: Agriturismo Isca delle Donne, Palinuro. Apartments: Case Vacanze Parco nel Sole, Palinuro.

Period

The cliff faces east and gets the shade at around 1pm. The tufas seep only after extended periods of rain and are therefore dry for most of the year.




Sectors

Bar Sospeso
The sports climbs
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Ricercati 28m 7c
Zio Tibia 2019. 13 rinvii
2 Pastore Jack 18m, 28m 6b+, 7a+/7b
Zio Tibia 2019. 13 rinvii
3 El Süga 18m, 35m L1 6c, 7b+/7c
Franz Mich 2019. 14 rinvii
4 Giuda Iscariota 18m 6c
Zio Tibia 2020. 7 rinvii
5 Bepi-No! 18m 7a+
Zio Tibia 2020. 8 rinvii
6 Alice 18m 7a
Zio Tibia 2020. 8 rinvii
7 Margherita 18m, 35m 7b, 7c+
Zio Tibia 2021. 14 rinvii
8 Palimuro 35m 7c+
Franz Mich 2019. 14 rinvii
9 Diretta Italo-Svedese 28m 8b+?
Tiziano Buccella 2019. 12 rinvii
10 Mare-Sciallo 28m 8b/8b+
Rolando Larcher 2019. 12 rinvii
11 Half Fingers 30m ?
Gianguido Dalfovo 2023
Lentisco
The sports climbs
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
12 Polipi Fritti 35m 7c+
Zio Tibia 2019. 19 rinvii
13 Big Black Bamboo 35m 7c+
Zio Tibia 2019. 18 rinvii
14 Nato The First 35m 7c+/8a
Rolando Larcher. 15 rinvii. Il 1°tiro, agosto 2019
15 100 La Qualunque 35m 8a+
Rolando Larcher 2019. 15 rinvii
16 Mister Provvisorio 32m, 37m 7c, ?
Nicola Sartori 2019. 16 rinvii
17 Roccia Gloriosa 32m,37m 7c+/8a, ?
Nicola Sartori 2019. 16 rinvii
18 Tufas Party 35m, 40m 8a, ?
Tiziano Buccella 2019. 17 rinvii
19 € 6.50 Rimborso 20m, 38m 7a+, 8a
Herman Zanetti 2019. 16 rinvii
20 La Verita’ B. Sas 24m, 38m 7c, 8a+
Rolando Larcher 2021
21 El Truffa 24m, 36m 7c+, ?
Fabio Leoni 2021
Olivastro
The sports climbs
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
22 Dj Rolando Larcher 26m 7c
Fabio Leoni 2021
23 Cippodromo 22m, 40m 6c+, 7c+
Herman Zanetti 2019. 17 rinvii
24 Resilienza 25m, 40m 7a+, 8a/8a+
Rolando Larcher 2022. 20 rinvii
25 Enigma 18m, 35m 7b+, 8b+?
Franz Mich 2021
26 Route 66 35m 8a/8a+
Franz Mich 2022. 22 rinvii
27 Zio Paletta 33m 7c+
Zio Tibia 2021
Vedetta
The sports climbs
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
28 La Chiave? 30m 8a+
Zio Tibia 2022
Topoline
The sports climbs
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Luciccia 20m 6a
Zio Tibia 2021
2 Matitti 20m 6b
Zio Tibia 2021





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