Alessandra Volpato
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Iker Pou making the first ascent of Big men 9a+, Fraguel, Mallorca.
Filmut.com
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 8b+
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
East
Rope
70m


Fraguel, or Freggel, lies hidden from view in a woody valley, but it is by no means a secret playground for the select few. It offers something for almost everyone, although there are few 6b's and 6c's; the majority are harder than 7b+. If steep overhanging routes are your idea of fun, then this is the place to come to.

Access

From Bunyola drive towards Santa Maria. Turn left immediately after the village, 200m before the bar on the left. The road becomes a dirt track; follow this up the numerous hairpin turns passed the gate. Park the car immediately after a short tarmacked section (about 5 km from leaving the main road) near a path on the right. Beware - this area is used for timber logging . Park the car so that the lorries can pass. Follow the path to a small clearing (50m) and take the left-hand fork. Continue for 15m then follow a track leftwards, past another grassy clearing through the woods. Don't miss a turning right and continue until a tree blocks the way. Go rightwards towards the edge of the crag and scramble down until the path leads easily to the base of the crag.

Logistics

Accommodation is not a problem as any travel agent will have hundreds of rooms on offer, but most of the hotels are about an hour's drive away from the crags. Package deals (flight & car only) can be very cheap and the best thing to do is to find a Bed & Breakfast inland.

Period

Apart from the summer months, climbing is possible all year round. March/April and October/November are ideal. The crag receives the sun only in the morning and if it's windy, then it can be extremely cold. Most difficult routes stay dry whatever the weather. The easier routes seep after rain.

Notes

The Balearic Islands, ideal for those in search of sun, sand and, above all, an outrageous nightlife, are currently one of the trendiest summer holiday resorts in Southern Europe. Infamous for the sheer number of high-rise hotels, pubs and clubs, the islands of Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formenter do little to shrug off this self-cultivated image of excess. But it would be wrong to believe that this Spanish archipelago has nothing to offer except for cheap holidays on crowded beaches. Not far from this chaotic urban sprawl are beautiful secluded coves, quiet small villages and rugged mountains. It is not surprising that these once fertile islands were an important Mediterranean stop for the Greeks, Phoenicians, Carthaginians and then the Romans. Their prosperity declined rapidly though and they lay virtually forgotten until the middle of this century when artists and intellectuals, attracted by the mild climate and beautiful scenery, made these islands the place to be once again. And now, far from Mallorca's sunburnt package tourists, incredible new crags have been discovered on which to climb on almost all year round!

Bibliography

Mallorca. Sport climbing and Deep Water Soloing by Alan James and Mark Glaister, Rockfax Publishing




Sectors

Settore 1
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Churropino 5
2 Chris Line 5
3 Tofol 6b+
4 Marmade 7b
5 Peep show's garriga 7b+
6 D 6b
7 Comando rasta 6a
8 Sementir 6a+
9 Esto no es Calvià 6b
10 Cous-Cous 6c
11 Cotorrot 7c+
12 el plumero 7b
13 Pastanaga punyetera 8a
14 On es l'avi 23m 7b
15 Cuencamelo 28m 7b+
16 Rock punk 26m 7c
17 El ultimo vals ?
Settore 2
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Tete de pen 26 m 7c/7c+
2 Glasnost 15 m 7b
3 Aloha from hell 18 m 7b
4 Miguelìn y los probetas 7c+
5 Pantano boas 18 m 7c+
6 No name 18 m 8b+
7 Humanoide 30 m 8a+
8 Bobo dodo 30 m 7b+
9 Miss Palma 18 m 7b+
10 Fes el que puguis 7a+
11 Terre d'aventure 30 m 8a
12 French kiss 30 m 8b
13 Ramadàn 28 m 8b/8b+
14 Shabada 28 m 8a+
15 Footbal fan 28 m 8a
Settore 3
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Amnesia 28m 8b
2 Le gorille e une bone mine 28m 7b+
3 Goo goo muck 25m 7c+/8a
4 Proyecto ? ?
5 Solo sex 28m 8a+
6 Salpicòn de menisco 8a 25m
7 Jungle hop 30 m 7a
8 Psico killer 25 m 6c+
9 Fakir 23 m 6c
10 Rosa de sanatorio 7b+
11 Caca de colores 6c+
12 Pink panther 5+
13 El gallinero 6a
14 El terrat 6b
15 Harissa 25 m 7a
16 Tabasco 35 m 7a+
17 666 35 m 6b+,6c
18 Ojo climbico 40 m 6c,6c+
19 La casa de la pradera 6a





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 8b+
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
East
Rope
70m


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