Roberto Casanova
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
3a - 8b
Height
160m
Routes number
130
Rock type
Dolomite. The south faces tend to remain dry, are yellowish white with horizontal crimps. On the overhanging north faces the rock is often dark grey, solid and with plenty of pockets.
Orientation
N, S, E, W


Thanks to their infinite variety of shapes and sizes, the marvellous Cinque Torri ideally represent the entire Dolomites. Although the towers can be admired from the center of Cortina, don't be deceived by their unmistakable silhouette: the characteristic profile isn't comprised of just 5 towers, but by a mass of secondary boulders, fractured towers and peaks sprinkled liberally across the entire area. These peaks are located to the west of Cortina on a grassy hillock just above the tree line at circa 2200m. From a geological point of view they belong to the Monte Averau group and are structured as follows: Torre Grande - subdivided into Cima Sud, Cima Nord and Cima Ovest. Torre Seconda - comprised of three distinct peaks called Lusy, Barancio and Romana. Torre Latina (third) Torre Quarta - subdivided into two boulders: Quarta bassa and Quarta Alta. Torre Inglese (fifth) Worth noting, for the various single pitch routes, Sasso Cubico and the sector called "Massi" The Cinque Torri are, by definition, everyone's "gym": for alpinists and sport climbers, for beginners to experts alike. It is on this jewel, made up of the most diverse boulders and towers, that the alpine season is prepared, that the "engines are revved" before climbing the massive walls nearby, such as the Tofane and Lagazuoi. In summer the ropes of alpinists intertwine with those of sport climbers who converge here to escape the summer heat and to enjoy the unique surroundings.
Access
Reach the 5 Torri by car from Cortina via the SS48 to Cianzopè, on the way to Passo Falzarego. Turn off left at km 112 towards Cianzopé - Rifugio Cinque Torri. park at the hut and then continue on foot towards the towers. These can be reached, depending on which you choose, in 10 - 20 minutes. Warning: the road Cianzopé - Rifugio Cinque Torri is closed on every Sunday during the month of August from 09:30 to 15:30. A shuttle bus service runs during these hours. Alternatively, reach the crag by parking at Bai de Dones, and take the chairlift to Rifugio Scoiattoli. From here take the obvious path to the base of the crag. Both Cianzopè and Bai de Dones can be reached by bus from Cortina. From Cianzopè you can either walk up the road or along path No. 439 which zigzags up through the forest to the hut. Logistics
The area surrounding the Cinque Torri has numerous huts and restaurants, all of which are "special" thanks to their geographical position, their history and the vast choice of local dishes, prepared with care and genuine ingredients. The area is also famous for the excellent wine and local fruit and herb grappa, ideal to end a day's climbing in the Dolomites. - At the foot of the 5 Torri: bar restaurant Bai de Dones, Rifugio Cinque Torri and Rifugio Scoiattoli. - close to Monte Civetta: Rifugio Fedare and Rifugio Piezza. - On Passo Giau at 2236m: the alpine hotel Passo Giau. - located along the Dolomimte roads : Hotel Villa Argentina, restaurant Grill da Strobel, Rifugio Col Gallina, Hotel restaurant Sasso di Stria and Hotel restaurant La Baita. - Passo Valparola to encounter history: Rifugio Valparola. - The balconies onto the Dolomites: Rifugio Lagazuoi and Rifugio Averau. - On the shores of Lage Federa: Rifugio Croda da Lago G. Palmieri. - Located in a marvellous alpine meadow: Rifugio Peziè de Parù. Climbing and more The 5 Torri crag is certainly extremely interesting for climbers, thanks to the numerous summits, the excellent rock quality, the orientation and ease of access. But the surrounding area offers much more. The crag is located in the Dolomiti d'Ampezzo Park and borders with the Sennes and Fanes Natural Park and offers numerous attractions: uncontaminated nature, hikes and mountain bike itineraries and the Great War museums. These mountains were the scene of an incredible wat between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops, and an immense open-air museum commemorates these tragic events on the Lagazuoi, the 5 Torri, Sasso di Stria and the Forte Tre Sassi. The museum extends for 5 km and enables visitors to discover the various aspects of the First World War in the breathtaking Dolomites. Car parks, buses between Cortina and Val Badia, tourist offices and modern cable cars are all at the service of tourists. For further information contact the Lagazuoi 5 Torri Tourist Office. Period
Summer Climb
The routes vary considerably. 130 routes up to 8b, including numerous multi-pitch routes of which 18 are classics and 19 are modern, situated predominantly on Torre Grande. Notes
Advice
Discovering the 5 Torri is always a unique experience but since this always has an inherent risk, take special care for falling rocks when climbing, abseiling and also when walking beneath the towers. A helmet is highly recommended. The classic routes have been partially re-equipped but they nevertheless require a full alpine rack. The descents from the towers are almost all via abseil. The multi-pitch routes have separate abseil stations.

- Time tables 5 Torri
For times and prices call: Lagazuoi 5 Torri Turismo, tel. + 39 0436 2863 lagazuoi5torri@dolomiti.org.

Panorama Cinque Torri - Roberto Casanova - www.casanovadesign.com


Bibliography
Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo.
Le più belle falesie attorno a Cortina d’Ampezzo: Cinque Torri, Bèco d’Ajàl, Campo e Volpèra, Colfiere, Crèpe de Oucèra bassi, Crèpe de Oucèra alti, Sòn Pòuses, Sass Dlacia, San Bodo, la Zoppa.



Sectors

Torre Grande Cima Sud
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Thomas 18m 6a+
2 S.N. 22m 6a+
3 S.N. 25m 6b+
4 Agrodolce 28m 6b
5 S.N. 28m 7a
6 Equipe 84 22m, 16m 6a+, 6b
7 Ramba Balù 26m 7b+
8 Ci vuole un fisico bestiale 20m, 14m 6b+, 5+
9 Fandango 20m 6c
10 Tommy Tom 25m 6c
11 Variante Tommy Tom 25m 7b
12 Morfologica 25m 7a/b
13 Calippo 25m 8a+
14 Franceschi (classica) 3 tiri 6b
15 Variante 1 Franceschi 35m 7b+
16 Variante 2 Franceschi 35m 7b
17 Footuk 25m 7b
18 Via col vento 25m 6b+
19 Variante Via col vento 22m 7b+
20 Direttissima Scoiattoli (classica) 6 tiri 6c+
21 Variante direttissima 20m 7a
22 Spit Express 20m, 30m 6c+, 7a+
23 Variante Spit express 27m 6c+
24 Pazzia Rock 20m, 26m 7c+, 7a+
25 Abraxas 20m 8b
26 Sulle ali di Dedalo 18m, 20m, 22m 6c+, 7a+, 6c
27 Nordica 16m, 26m 6b, 7a+
28 S.N. 26m 6c
29 W lo Spot 16m, 16m, 18m 7a, 7a, 6b
30 Myriam (classica) 6 tiri V
31 S.N. 24m 6c+
32 S.N. 22m 6a+
33 Diretta Dimai (classica) 8 tiri 6a+
34 Via delle Raponzole (classica) 4 tiri 6a
35 Fessura Dimai (classica) 4 tiri VI
36 Nuova Germana 32m, 20m 7a+, 6b
Torre Grande Cima Nord
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
37 Idefix 25m, 15m, 15m, 25m 4, 6b+, 6a+, 7a
38 Finlandia (classica) 5 tiri max 6b
39 Clarissa 21m, 11m, 18m 6b+, 7a, 7a
40 Columbus 22m, 20m, 22m, 25m 6b, 6c, 7a, 6a+
41 S.N. 40m 7a+
42 Farouk 25m, 20m, 15m 6a+, 7a+, 7a
Torre Grande Cima Ovest
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
59 Via delle Guide (classica) 4 tiri IV
60 S.N. 18m 5
61 S.N. 20m 5+
62 Fra fra 20m 6a
63 Zebra Zabra 20m 6a+
64 Rosamunda 22m 5+
Sasso Cubico
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
65 Swing 16m 6a
66 S.N. 16m 6a+
67 La danza di Pier 14m 6a
68 Ha chiamato cubista 14m 8b
69 Telefono Azzurro 14m 8a
70 Cliffhanger 14m 8a
71 Houi 8m 7a+





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Beauty
Difficulty
3a - 8b
Height
160m
Routes number
130
Rock type
Dolomite. The south faces tend to remain dry, are yellowish white with horizontal crimps. On the overhanging north faces the rock is often dark grey, solid and with plenty of pockets.
Orientation
N, S, E, W


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