Cinque Torri
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
3a - 8b
Height
160m
Routes number
130
Rock type
Dolomite. The south faces tend to remain dry, are yellowish white with horizontal crimps. On the overhanging north faces the rock is often dark grey, solid and with plenty of pockets.
Orientation
N, S, E, W
Thanks to their infinite variety of shapes and sizes, the marvellous Cinque Torri ideally represent the entire Dolomites. Although the towers can be admired from the center of Cortina, don't be deceived by their unmistakable silhouette: the characteristic profile isn't comprised of just 5 towers, but by a mass of secondary boulders, fractured towers and peaks sprinkled liberally across the entire area. These peaks are located to the west of Cortina on a grassy hillock just above the tree line at circa 2200m. From a geological point of view they belong to the Monte Averau group and are structured as follows:Torre Grande - subdivided into Cima Sud, Cima Nord and Cima Ovest.Torre Seconda - comprised of three distinct peaks called Lusy, Barancio and Romana.Torre Latina (third)Torre Quarta - subdivided into two boulders: Quarta bassa and Quarta Alta.Torre Inglese (fifth)Worth noting, for the various single pitch routes, Sasso Cubico and the sector called "Massi"The Cinque Torri are, by definition, everyone's "gym": for alpinists and sport climbers, for beginners to experts alike. It is on this jewel, made up of the most diverse boulders and towers, that the alpine season is prepared, that the "engines are revved" before climbing the massive walls nearby, such as the Tofane and Lagazuoi. In summer the ropes of alpinists intertwine with those of sport climbers who converge here to escape the summer heat and to enjoy the unique surroundings.
Access
Reach the 5 Torri by car from Cortina via the SS48 to Cianzopè, on the way to Passo Falzarego. Turn off left at km 112 towards Cianzopé - Rifugio Cinque Torri. park at the hut and then continue on foot towards the towers. These can be reached, depending on which you choose, in 10 - 20 minutes. Warning: the road Cianzopé - Rifugio Cinque Torri is closed on every Sunday during the month of August from 09:30 to 15:30. A shuttle bus service runs during these hours. Alternatively, reach the crag by parking at Bai de Dones, and take the chairlift to Rifugio Scoiattoli. From here take the obvious path to the base of the crag. Both Cianzopè and Bai de Dones can be reached by bus from Cortina. From Cianzopè you can either walk up the road or along path No. 439 which zigzags up through the forest to the hut. Logistics
The area surrounding the Cinque Torri has numerous huts and restaurants, all of which are "special" thanks to their geographical position, their history and the vast choice of local dishes, prepared with care and genuine ingredients. The area is also famous for the excellent wine and local fruit and herb grappa, ideal to end a day's climbing in the Dolomites. - At the foot of the 5 Torri: bar restaurant Bai de Dones, Rifugio Cinque Torri and Rifugio Scoiattoli.- close to Monte Civetta: Rifugio Fedare and Rifugio Piezza.- On Passo Giau at 2236m: the alpine hotel Passo Giau.- located along the Dolomimte roads : Hotel Villa Argentina, restaurant Grill da Strobel, Rifugio Col Gallina, Hotel restaurant Sasso di Stria and Hotel restaurant La Baita.- Passo Valparola to encounter history: Rifugio Valparola.- The balconies onto the Dolomites: Rifugio Lagazuoi and Rifugio Averau.- On the shores of Lage Federa: Rifugio Croda da Lago G. Palmieri.- Located in a marvellous alpine meadow: Rifugio Peziè de Parù.Climbing and moreThe 5 Torri crag is certainly extremely interesting for climbers, thanks to the numerous summits, the excellent rock quality, the orientation and ease of access. But the surrounding area offers much more. The crag is located in the Dolomiti d'Ampezzo Park and borders with the Sennes and Fanes Natural Park and offers numerous attractions: uncontaminated nature, hikes and mountain bike itineraries and the Great War museums.These mountains were the scene of an incredible wat between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops, and an immense open-air museum commemorates these tragic events on the Lagazuoi, the 5 Torri, Sasso di Stria and the Forte Tre Sassi. The museum extends for 5 km and enables visitors to discover the various aspects of the First World War in the breathtaking Dolomites. Car parks, buses between Cortina and Val Badia, tourist offices and modern cable cars are all at the service of tourists. For further information contact the Lagazuoi 5 Torri Tourist Office. Period
Summer Climb
The routes vary considerably. 130 routes up to 8b, including numerous multi-pitch routes of which 18 are classics and 19 are modern, situated predominantly on Torre Grande. Notes
Advice
Discovering the 5 Torri is always a unique experience but since this always has an inherent risk, take special care for falling rocks when climbing, abseiling and also when walking beneath the towers. A helmet is highly recommended. The classic routes have been partially re-equipped but they nevertheless require a full alpine rack. The descents from the towers are almost all via abseil. The multi-pitch routes have separate abseil stations.
- Time tables 5 Torri
For times and prices call: Lagazuoi 5 Torri Turismo, tel. + 39 0436 2863 lagazuoi5torri@dolomiti.org.
Panorama Cinque Torri - Roberto Casanova - www.casanovadesign.com
Bibliography
Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo.
Le più belle falesie attorno a Cortina dAmpezzo: Cinque Torri, Bèco dAjàl, Campo e Volpèra, Colfiere, Crèpe de Oucèra bassi, Crèpe de Oucèra alti, Sòn Pòuses, Sass Dlacia, San Bodo, la Zoppa.
Reach the 5 Torri by car from Cortina via the SS48 to Cianzopè, on the way to Passo Falzarego. Turn off left at km 112 towards Cianzopé - Rifugio Cinque Torri. park at the hut and then continue on foot towards the towers. These can be reached, depending on which you choose, in 10 - 20 minutes. Warning: the road Cianzopé - Rifugio Cinque Torri is closed on every Sunday during the month of August from 09:30 to 15:30. A shuttle bus service runs during these hours. Alternatively, reach the crag by parking at Bai de Dones, and take the chairlift to Rifugio Scoiattoli. From here take the obvious path to the base of the crag. Both Cianzopè and Bai de Dones can be reached by bus from Cortina. From Cianzopè you can either walk up the road or along path No. 439 which zigzags up through the forest to the hut. Logistics
The area surrounding the Cinque Torri has numerous huts and restaurants, all of which are "special" thanks to their geographical position, their history and the vast choice of local dishes, prepared with care and genuine ingredients. The area is also famous for the excellent wine and local fruit and herb grappa, ideal to end a day's climbing in the Dolomites. - At the foot of the 5 Torri: bar restaurant Bai de Dones, Rifugio Cinque Torri and Rifugio Scoiattoli.- close to Monte Civetta: Rifugio Fedare and Rifugio Piezza.- On Passo Giau at 2236m: the alpine hotel Passo Giau.- located along the Dolomimte roads : Hotel Villa Argentina, restaurant Grill da Strobel, Rifugio Col Gallina, Hotel restaurant Sasso di Stria and Hotel restaurant La Baita.- Passo Valparola to encounter history: Rifugio Valparola.- The balconies onto the Dolomites: Rifugio Lagazuoi and Rifugio Averau.- On the shores of Lage Federa: Rifugio Croda da Lago G. Palmieri.- Located in a marvellous alpine meadow: Rifugio Peziè de Parù.Climbing and moreThe 5 Torri crag is certainly extremely interesting for climbers, thanks to the numerous summits, the excellent rock quality, the orientation and ease of access. But the surrounding area offers much more. The crag is located in the Dolomiti d'Ampezzo Park and borders with the Sennes and Fanes Natural Park and offers numerous attractions: uncontaminated nature, hikes and mountain bike itineraries and the Great War museums.These mountains were the scene of an incredible wat between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops, and an immense open-air museum commemorates these tragic events on the Lagazuoi, the 5 Torri, Sasso di Stria and the Forte Tre Sassi. The museum extends for 5 km and enables visitors to discover the various aspects of the First World War in the breathtaking Dolomites. Car parks, buses between Cortina and Val Badia, tourist offices and modern cable cars are all at the service of tourists. For further information contact the Lagazuoi 5 Torri Tourist Office. Period
Summer Climb
The routes vary considerably. 130 routes up to 8b, including numerous multi-pitch routes of which 18 are classics and 19 are modern, situated predominantly on Torre Grande. Notes
Advice
Discovering the 5 Torri is always a unique experience but since this always has an inherent risk, take special care for falling rocks when climbing, abseiling and also when walking beneath the towers. A helmet is highly recommended. The classic routes have been partially re-equipped but they nevertheless require a full alpine rack. The descents from the towers are almost all via abseil. The multi-pitch routes have separate abseil stations.
- Time tables 5 Torri
For times and prices call: Lagazuoi 5 Torri Turismo, tel. + 39 0436 2863 lagazuoi5torri@dolomiti.org.
Panorama Cinque Torri - Roberto Casanova - www.casanovadesign.com
Bibliography
Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo.
Le più belle falesie attorno a Cortina dAmpezzo: Cinque Torri, Bèco dAjàl, Campo e Volpèra, Colfiere, Crèpe de Oucèra bassi, Crèpe de Oucèra alti, Sòn Pòuses, Sass Dlacia, San Bodo, la Zoppa.
Sectors
Torre Grande Cima Sud
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Thomas | 18m | 6a+ | |
2 | S.N. | 22m | 6a+ | |
3 | S.N. | 25m | 6b+ | |
4 | Agrodolce | 28m | 6b | |
5 | S.N. | 28m | 7a | |
6 | Equipe 84 | 22m, 16m | 6a+, 6b | |
7 | Ramba Balù | 26m | 7b+ | |
8 | Ci vuole un fisico bestiale | 20m, 14m | 6b+, 5+ | |
9 | Fandango | 20m | 6c | |
10 | Tommy Tom | 25m | 6c | |
11 | Variante Tommy Tom | 25m | 7b | |
12 | Morfologica | 25m | 7a/b | |
13 | Calippo | 25m | 8a+ | |
14 | Franceschi (classica) | 3 tiri | 6b | |
15 | Variante 1 Franceschi | 35m | 7b+ | |
16 | Variante 2 Franceschi | 35m | 7b | |
17 | Footuk | 25m | 7b | |
18 | Via col vento | 25m | 6b+ | |
19 | Variante Via col vento | 22m | 7b+ | |
20 | Direttissima Scoiattoli (classica) | 6 tiri | 6c+ | |
21 | Variante direttissima | 20m | 7a | |
22 | Spit Express | 20m, 30m | 6c+, 7a+ | |
23 | Variante Spit express | 27m | 6c+ | |
24 | Pazzia Rock | 20m, 26m | 7c+, 7a+ | |
25 | Abraxas | 20m | 8b | |
26 | Sulle ali di Dedalo | 18m, 20m, 22m | 6c+, 7a+, 6c | |
27 | Nordica | 16m, 26m | 6b, 7a+ | |
28 | S.N. | 26m | 6c | |
29 | W lo Spot | 16m, 16m, 18m | 7a, 7a, 6b | |
30 | Myriam (classica) | 6 tiri | V | |
31 | S.N. | 24m | 6c+ | |
32 | S.N. | 22m | 6a+ | |
33 | Diretta Dimai (classica) | 8 tiri | 6a+ | |
34 | Via delle Raponzole (classica) | 4 tiri | 6a | |
35 | Fessura Dimai (classica) | 4 tiri | VI | |
36 | Nuova Germana | 32m, 20m | 7a+, 6b |
Torre Grande Cima Nord
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
37 | Idefix | 25m, 15m, 15m, 25m | 4, 6b+, 6a+, 7a | |
38 | Finlandia (classica) | 5 tiri | max 6b | |
39 | Clarissa | 21m, 11m, 18m | 6b+, 7a, 7a | |
40 | Columbus | 22m, 20m, 22m, 25m | 6b, 6c, 7a, 6a+ | |
41 | S.N. | 40m | 7a+ | |
42 | Farouk | 25m, 20m, 15m | 6a+, 7a+, 7a |
Torre Grande Cima Ovest
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
59 | Via delle Guide (classica) | 4 tiri | IV | |
60 | S.N. | 18m | 5 | |
61 | S.N. | 20m | 5+ | |
62 | Fra fra | 20m | 6a | |
63 | Zebra Zabra | 20m | 6a+ | |
64 | Rosamunda | 22m | 5+ |
Sasso Cubico
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
65 | Swing | 16m | 6a | |
66 | S.N. | 16m | 6a+ | |
67 | La danza di Pier | 14m | 6a | |
68 | Ha chiamato cubista | 14m | 8b | |
69 | Telefono Azzurro | 14m | 8a | |
70 | Cliffhanger | 14m | 8a | |
71 | Houi | 8m | 7a+ |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
3a - 8b
Height
160m
Routes number
130
Rock type
Dolomite. The south faces tend to remain dry, are yellowish white with horizontal crimps. On the overhanging north faces the rock is often dark grey, solid and with plenty of pockets.
Orientation
N, S, E, W
Crags in the same region
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