Via Rajëta - Campanile Innerkofler
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Via Rajëta: Establishing the crux pitch © E. Valleferro
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Carlo Alverà, Edoardo Valleferro 10/08/2011
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
East
Length
228m
Height
2701m
Difficulty
VI+
Via Rajëta was extablished ground-up with pegs and nuts and all belays have in-situ gear, although some need backing up. The route starts circa 10m to the left of the Via Hahn - Haupt and takes a direct line to the right of the arete. The 5th pitch through the roof is pumpy and the in-situ gear can be backed up with small-mid size camming devices.
Getting there
Reach Cortina d’Ampezzo in the Italian Dolomites. From Cortina d’Ampezzo take the road S.S.48 to Pocol (6 km), then continue on the S.P 638 towards Passo Giau and park at Ru Curto (1695m). Access
From Ru Curto (1695m) walk along path# 437 towards Rifugio Croda da Lago. Before descending towards the lake heads upwards to the rock face, towards the grass gully with pine trees. The final grade II-III scramble leads to a grass slope. Ascend this past two small gullies to reach the large ledge. Follow this past the start of the route Hahn - Haupt (thread with sling). 2 hours. Itinerary
P1: V, 38m
P2: IV, 45m
P3: IV+, 30m
P4: V, 35m
P5: VI+, 34m
P6: V+, 45m Descent
From the final belay climb past the boulder on the left and continue west for 20m to reach the ancor (sling and two bolts). Abseil down for 25m to reach the Eotvos col. Continue down east and follow the abseils down the normal route (50m ropes recommended).
Reach Cortina d’Ampezzo in the Italian Dolomites. From Cortina d’Ampezzo take the road S.S.48 to Pocol (6 km), then continue on the S.P 638 towards Passo Giau and park at Ru Curto (1695m). Access
From Ru Curto (1695m) walk along path# 437 towards Rifugio Croda da Lago. Before descending towards the lake heads upwards to the rock face, towards the grass gully with pine trees. The final grade II-III scramble leads to a grass slope. Ascend this past two small gullies to reach the large ledge. Follow this past the start of the route Hahn - Haupt (thread with sling). 2 hours. Itinerary
P1: V, 38m
P2: IV, 45m
P3: IV+, 30m
P4: V, 35m
P5: VI+, 34m
P6: V+, 45m Descent
From the final belay climb past the boulder on the left and continue west for 20m to reach the ancor (sling and two bolts). Abseil down for 25m to reach the Eotvos col. Continue down east and follow the abseils down the normal route (50m ropes recommended).
Comments
28/10/2011 croda
via molto bella il passaggio di 6°+ è un tetto fessurato integrabile, infatti in apertura non è stato protetto con chiodi ma solo con protezioni veloci.
Panorama stupendo,e la cima è un punto panoramico straordinario.
andate a fare un giro ne vale la pena
ciao
Beauty
First ascent
Carlo Alverà, Edoardo Valleferro 10/08/2011
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
East
Length
228m
Height
2701m
Difficulty
VI+
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