Via Ferrata Renè de Pol - Punta Ovest del Forame (2385m)
Copia link
Planetmountain.com
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
South
Ascent height difference
2000m
Ferrata height difference
300m
Height
2413m
Difficulty
Medium
Time
6 hours
Period
From the end of June to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
low
Route
The actual via ferrata is not particularly long and traverses the north and north east faces of the Forame mountain chain, a minor western outcrop of the Cristallo group. 500m of metal cables and sections of iron rungs lead through small walls and past rubble terraces to reach the Austrian First World War emplacements and the Punta Ovest del Forame summit as well as the Forame de Fora. From Forcella Verde it is also possible to reach the Cristallo’s Forcella Grande and, along the easier Ivano Dibona, reach Forcella Staunies and Rifugio Guido Lorenzi.
Getting there
Take the SS 51 Alemagna that leads from Cortina to Dobbiaco and park at the bar at Ospitale, Cimabanche. Access
Follow the disused railway along path no. 208 to a steep signposted path after a wooden bridge. Follow this and its red markers through the forest to exit beneath the rocks. At the isolated tree the path bears left (east) and traverses beneath three caves, the so-called Tre Fori, before rising sharply up the scree slope to the large cave where there is a via ferrata visitors book . The start of the ferrata is reached by continuing leftwards along the path (2080 m 1.30 hours). Itinerary
With the help of the first cables reach ‘la parete nera’, the black rock face, and continue right to ascend the first slope ‘Cengia Bassa’, the lower ledge. Ramps and a vertical chimney equipped with iron rungs lead to a second ledge, after which a gully is reached via a steep path. A path leads along the left at first, then the bottom to reach a col on the crest which leads westwards to the large Punta Ovest del Forame summit (1.30 hrs). Now cross grassy slopes and descend SE to traverse beneath the rocks at the base of the Forame, to then climb the crest and Forame de Fora. Follow the crest to Forcella Gialla (2400m) and then traverse along the crest and scree, to Forcella Verde. From Forcella Verde it is possible to reach the Cristallo’s Forcella Grande and, along the easier Ivano Dibona, reach Forcella Staunies and Rifugio Guido Lorenzi (3.00 hours). Descent
From Forcella Verde follow the scree slope to a signposted path 2/3 of the way down (beware of the sudden drop at the end of this slope!). The path leads towards the Pra del Vecio gully and meets up with the ascent path used earlier on in the day, which in turn leads back to the parking lot at Cimabanche. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
This is a demanding ferrata, especially if the walk-in and descent are taken into account. Due care and attention are required at the start of the season as snow and ice may still be present on the wide terraces and ledges.
Take the SS 51 Alemagna that leads from Cortina to Dobbiaco and park at the bar at Ospitale, Cimabanche. Access
Follow the disused railway along path no. 208 to a steep signposted path after a wooden bridge. Follow this and its red markers through the forest to exit beneath the rocks. At the isolated tree the path bears left (east) and traverses beneath three caves, the so-called Tre Fori, before rising sharply up the scree slope to the large cave where there is a via ferrata visitors book . The start of the ferrata is reached by continuing leftwards along the path (2080 m 1.30 hours). Itinerary
With the help of the first cables reach ‘la parete nera’, the black rock face, and continue right to ascend the first slope ‘Cengia Bassa’, the lower ledge. Ramps and a vertical chimney equipped with iron rungs lead to a second ledge, after which a gully is reached via a steep path. A path leads along the left at first, then the bottom to reach a col on the crest which leads westwards to the large Punta Ovest del Forame summit (1.30 hrs). Now cross grassy slopes and descend SE to traverse beneath the rocks at the base of the Forame, to then climb the crest and Forame de Fora. Follow the crest to Forcella Gialla (2400m) and then traverse along the crest and scree, to Forcella Verde. From Forcella Verde it is possible to reach the Cristallo’s Forcella Grande and, along the easier Ivano Dibona, reach Forcella Staunies and Rifugio Guido Lorenzi (3.00 hours). Descent
From Forcella Verde follow the scree slope to a signposted path 2/3 of the way down (beware of the sudden drop at the end of this slope!). The path leads towards the Pra del Vecio gully and meets up with the ascent path used earlier on in the day, which in turn leads back to the parking lot at Cimabanche. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
This is a demanding ferrata, especially if the walk-in and descent are taken into account. Due care and attention are required at the start of the season as snow and ice may still be present on the wide terraces and ledges.
Comments
11/07/2005 Francesco Garbellotto
Percorsa in salita sotto una pioggerella che ha reso tutto più difficile. A parte due passaggi in cui ci vuole un po' di destrezza e forza di braccia, si percorre senza problemi in sicurezza. Qualche tratto esposto. In discesa da forcella gialla tenersi sulla destra per non sbagliare sentiero. Le postazioni austriache meritano riflessioni sulle condizioni dei soldati e sul "non-senso" della guerra in genere
27/01/2004 Ernesto Coleto
vOTO 4 NON TANTO PER LA FERRATA, QUANTO PER L'AMBIENTE, ASPRO E SOLITARIO QUANTO BASTA. LA DE POL E' DA FARE IN SALITA, CON DISCESA PER IL SELVAGGIO VALLONE DEL FELIZON (BOLLI ROSSI, OCCHIO ALL'ORIENTAMENTO)CHE RIPORTA SUL SENTIERO DI SALITA. MERITEREBBE UNA REVISIONE GENERALE, PERCHE'E' INTERESSANTE.
18/09/2003 BRUNO TABURCHI
Questa escursione è uno splendido tributo ad una delle montagne più belle della zona : La Croda Rossa.Ho effettuato il percorso al contrario perchè al bivio i cartelli sono posizionati malamente , e perciò mi sono ritrovato alla forcella verde facendo il canalone dei camosci (ce n' erano 2 !).La ferrata de Pol l' ho fatta perciò in discesa, e qualche problemino può esserci all' inizio, nel tratto della gola che è un po' ripido.E' bella questa escursione, ma la consiglio nel senso tradizionale (senso orario) 1. Perchè le ferrate andrebbero fatte sempre in salita, soprattutto quelle con le scale come questa. 2. Perchè i canaloni sono divertenti in discesa, e frustranti in salita.Il paesaggio è magnifico, compreso il bosco attorno ad Ospitale.La salita è comunque molto ripida, perchè il dislivello di 900 m. circa si produce in un chilometraggio limitato.Saluti a tuttiBruno Taburchi Perugia
31/08/2001 Aurelio Scaramagli
Voto meritato soprattutto per il magnifico isolamento ( a differenza del vicino Sentiero Dibona ).La Vs. descrizione della discesa non è chiara : si può scendere dalla Forcella Verde su entrambi i versanti e mi pare che nella descrizione si mischino i due itinerari; quello da Voi descritto, che scende a ovest e riporta sul sentiero di salita, non passa dalla Valle Prà del Vecia che è percorsa invece dall'altro ( che scende a est ).
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
South
Ascent height difference
2000m
Ferrata height difference
300m
Height
2413m
Difficulty
Medium
Time
6 hours
Period
From the end of June to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
low
Route
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