Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella - Tofana di Rozes

Planetmountain.com
1 / 8
Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella: Photo Planetmountain
Planetmountain
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
Southwest
Ascent height difference
900m
Ferrata height difference
600m
Height
3225m
Difficulty
Medium
Time
6 hours - total 8
Period
From June to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
high

Route



The ‘Lipella’ high up on the Tofana di Rozes is an unmissable ferrata for any keen mountaineer. A splendid journey into the heart of the Dolomites and a trip into history where the most tragic and memorable events of the First World War took place. The length of this ferrata makes it tough. Equipped in the most difficult parts, it picks out weak points of the south west face where it follows a lengthy route up stepped terrain and scree-covered ledges, up to the 3225 meter peak.
Getting there
From Cortina take the road towards Passo Falzarego. Near a little church after Pocol, a signed track leads off to the right. Turn left at the next fork and continue to Rifugio Dibona. Access
From the Rifugio Ivano Dibona take path no. 404 and traverse beneath the imposing Tofana di Rozes to equipped steps that lead up to the Castelletto tunnel. Itinerary
This ferrata is reached through the characteristic ‘Galleria del Castelletto’ (2459m). Ascend this tunnel, dug out by the Alpini soldiers during the First World War (height gain 120m - length 500m – torch necessary). The route then continues on the W/NW Face of the Tofana di Rozes up a long, winding ascent of alternating steep steps and ledges. At the fork (2680m), near the ‘Tre dita’, continue along the ledge to the right (Rifugio Giussani is reached by walking left), then continue up numerous steps and a tiring ramp to reach the smaller peak (3027m), where the ferrata ends. Follow the track to the summit and the cross. Descent
The descent follows the same route as the ascent as far as the pre-peak, then follow the normal path to the right (NE). Follow the blue markers across ledges and scree down to Rifugio Giussani.  This descent requires particular care when snow is present. From Rifugio Giussani follow path no. 403 back to Rifugio Dibona. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit. At the beginning of the season, or in case of recent snowfall, appropriate snow gear should be taken. A torch is necessary for the Castelletto tunnel. Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher . Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
Long itinerary that requires a high level of fitness. At the beginning of the season the higher parts of the ascent route and the descent are covered in snow. Attention should also be paid to falling stones, dislodged by other mountaineers or by the thaw.





Comments

Info

You must fill all fields

Thanks for sending us your comment!
It will be visible as soon as it has been approved.

Wrong verification code

You must wait 2 minutes before commenting again.


02/06/2009 Claudio Sacchi
Il nome del Rifugio "Von Glanvell" è errato: quello giusto è "Wolf-Glanvell"; Kapitän Barborka è stato comandante del 3° Landesschützen. La Scala del Minighel è composta da 176 fittoni in acciaio, con sbalzo di circa 80 cm. Tschüß.
02/06/2009 Claudio Sacchi
Quanti, fra i turisti che salgono al Giussani, notano a sinistra il vecchio Rifugio Gen. Antonio Cantore, che prende il nome dalla Medaglia d'Oro "Papà degli Alpini", che fu colpito in fronte nel luogo, sulla destra, dove oggi una piccola stele in porfido lo ricorda. Ciao. Lapide Barborka in latino
31/05/2009 Claudio Sacchi
Quanto segue non riguarda la Lipella, ma coloro che non soffrono di vertigini e vogliono qualcosa di nuovo: avete mai percorso la Scala del Minighel, percorso di guerra austriaco da Val Travenanzes al Masarè, pioli perpendicolari alla roccia, vuoto dietro, a sinistra e davanti, roccia a destra. Ciao
31/05/2009 Claudio Sacchi
Chi ha percorso la Val Travenanzes, avrà forse notato, nei pressi dei ruderi dell' ex Rifugio Von Glanvell, una lapide in ricordo del valoroso Capitano Emmanuel Barborka, comandante del settore Travenanzes, ucciso nel 1916 e sepolto nel Cimitero di Cortina dove pure era il n/s Generale Cantore. Ciao
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
Southwest
Ascent height difference
900m
Ferrata height difference
600m
Height
3225m
Difficulty
Medium
Time
6 hours - total 8
Period
From June to October, depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
high

Route



Routes in the same mountain group

Show more in Tofane