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Via Ferrata Cesare Piazzetta
Planetmountain
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
South
Ascent height difference
900m
Ferrata height difference
300m
Height
3152m
Difficulty
Very Difficult
Time
4-6 hours
Period
June - October
Popularity
Medium
Ferrata Piazzetta is one of the most demanding itineraries of its kind. The near vertical start can only be ascending with the help of the in-situ gear, and good footwork is a necessary pre-requisite. The final section leading to the summit is less steep but, since only partly equipped, demands due attention.
Getting there
From Canazei in Val di Fassa or Arabba drive to Passo Pordoi. Access
Park the car at the pass and take the cable car to the Sass Pordoi summit, to then walk down the Pordoi gully before traversing eastwards to the base of the ferrata along paths no. 638 and 7.
Alternatively, take the path from the pass to the base of the scree gully to traverse off rightwards along path no.7
A third possibility consists in driving to the First World War memorial and then taking the steep path to the base of the ferrata (1.30 hours). Itinerary
A metal plaque marks the start of the ferrata: start immediately by following cables up a yellow/grey vertical wall. The line zigzags up small ledges first left then right. Good footwork renders things much easier! At the end of this brusque start traverse left along a good ledge to reach a narrow chimney. Follow this to then return to a small suspension bridge. Walk across this and continue up steep but easy rock steps to reach the final crest. The major difficulties are over and done with - now scramble up without the use of fixed cables along the crest. To finish either follow the path leftwards (west) to Forc. Pordoi, or continue along the stepped crest to join up with path no. 638 that leads up to the Piz Boé summit (3152m). Descent
For those who have chosen not to reach the summit of Piz Boé, reach Forc. Pordoi and descend the scree gully all the way down to Passo Pordoi. From the summit of Piz Boé either descend north to the Refugio Boé or return, along path no. 638, to Forc. Pordoi. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
Demanding itinerary, especially at the start. Experience and good footwork required, especially since some sections are not equipped. A rope may be found useful for the start and the final summit crest.
From Canazei in Val di Fassa or Arabba drive to Passo Pordoi. Access
Park the car at the pass and take the cable car to the Sass Pordoi summit, to then walk down the Pordoi gully before traversing eastwards to the base of the ferrata along paths no. 638 and 7.
Alternatively, take the path from the pass to the base of the scree gully to traverse off rightwards along path no.7
A third possibility consists in driving to the First World War memorial and then taking the steep path to the base of the ferrata (1.30 hours). Itinerary
A metal plaque marks the start of the ferrata: start immediately by following cables up a yellow/grey vertical wall. The line zigzags up small ledges first left then right. Good footwork renders things much easier! At the end of this brusque start traverse left along a good ledge to reach a narrow chimney. Follow this to then return to a small suspension bridge. Walk across this and continue up steep but easy rock steps to reach the final crest. The major difficulties are over and done with - now scramble up without the use of fixed cables along the crest. To finish either follow the path leftwards (west) to Forc. Pordoi, or continue along the stepped crest to join up with path no. 638 that leads up to the Piz Boé summit (3152m). Descent
For those who have chosen not to reach the summit of Piz Boé, reach Forc. Pordoi and descend the scree gully all the way down to Passo Pordoi. From the summit of Piz Boé either descend north to the Refugio Boé or return, along path no. 638, to Forc. Pordoi. Gear
Normal via ferrata kit Maps/Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002 Difficulty
Demanding itinerary, especially at the start. Experience and good footwork required, especially since some sections are not equipped. A rope may be found useful for the start and the final summit crest.
Comments
08/06/2013 Paolo Borsoni
La ferrata Piazzetta confrontata con la Mesules sul Sella, la Sci Club confrontata con la Tomaselli a Cortina, la Pertini confrontata con la Sass Rigais a Selva di Val Gardena chiariscono bene i termini del problema sollevato da chi vorrebbe eliminare tutte le ferrate dalle Dolomiti perché deturpano il paesaggio. Nei primi casi si sono messi chiodi e fili di acciaio su pareti intonse con una filosofia agonistica per arrivare con similscalate e arrampicate di secondo ordine dove facilmente si può giungere anche con un sentiero normale. Nei secondi casi si sono attrezzate per sicurezza vie uniche che portano a luoghi straordinari, altrimenti inavvicinabili se non a pochissimi scalatori.
Le prime ferrate sono ibridi inutili. Le seconde ferrate arrichiscono i luoghi e chi le fa.
01/04/2009 Claudio Sacchi
Concordo pienamente con i Sigg. Giorgioni, Tartaglia (alla fine), Boccacci e Spalla.Tschüs!
06/06/2008 Carlo Giorgioni
Penso sia una delle più brutte ed insensate ferrate mai tracciate. Quando si insegue il mito della ferrata difficile a tutti i costi senza alcuna considerazione questo è il risultato. Soprattutto la partenza che obbliga ad attaccarsi alla corda è un insulto all'arrampicata. Non ricordo (è passato molo tempo, è vero, ma ho buona memoria) alcun passaggio di particolare interesse. Con una ferrata meravigliosa come le Meisules, il sella non aveva bisogno di questa smargiassata.Non la rifarò.
12/09/2007 Tartaglia Roberto
La ferrata è tra le più difficili, l'attacco è veramente tosto ed occorre molta forza nelle braccia, per fortuna il tutto dura poco più di 100m. Sarà stata la giornata bellissima ma il panorama che si gode è veramente notevole. Dopo una salita quasi in solitaria l'arrivo al Piz Boè mi ha ricordato con un po di delusione la Firenze signa....che casino.
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
South
Ascent height difference
900m
Ferrata height difference
300m
Height
3152m
Difficulty
Very Difficult
Time
4-6 hours
Period
June - October
Popularity
Medium
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