Via Ferrata Bocchette Alte - Cima Brenta

Drive to Madonna di Campiglio.

Rifugio del Tuckett can be reached from Madonna di Campiglio in two ways.1. by car to Rifugio Vallesinella (1513m), to then continue easily on foot along path no. 317 to Rifugio Casinei (1825m) and then, in two hours, to Rifugio del Tuckett (2271m).
2. take the lifts to Rifugio Grosté (2261m) and then continue along the easy path no. 316 to Rifugio del Tuckett.

From Rifugio del Tuckett take path no. 303 to reach the snowfield and the Bocca del Tuckett saddle. Continue right from here following signs up stepped rocks to the obvious start of the ferrata. Cables and ladders follow steeply up the crest to vertical ladders that lead up to the main ledge system. Crampons and ice axes may be found necessary on this first tiring, cold and windy section, especially at the start of the season. The exposed but well-equipped ledge now leads off leftwards, along the eastern flank of Cima Brenta. After an easy zigzag ascent reach a plaque and the Via Normale that scrambles up, via cairns and a series of chimneys, to Cima Vallesinella and Cima Brenta (3151 m – 1 hour, care and attention required). The ferrata however continues on and descends into a dark and damp gully, past cables to a small icefield. This section is rightly considered the crux as the cable may be buried in snow at the start of the season and tends not to be taught. After having crossed this (queues possible) the ferrate leads up and down ledges to reach a wide terrace with a fantastic view south onto the flat Spallone dei Massodi and the impressive Cima Brenta to the north. Leave this panorama point and descend steeply via cables and ladders to the Bocca Alta dei Massodi and the famous Scala degli Amici. Thirty exposed vertical meters lead to the windy Spallone at 3000m. Follow signs across this to duck down into a gully and a gravely path that descends to further ladders and the saddle (Bocca Bassa dei Massodi nestled beneath Cima Molveno (2917m). A variation leads off rightwards slightly beforehand down the Via Ferrata Oliva Detassis, but the Via delle Bocchette Alte continues left at the fork to the obvious saddle and then on up to Cima Molveno. Descend easily to the Vedretta dei Sfulmini glacier and Rifugio Alimonta (2580m).

For those who have not planned to spend the night in Rifugio Alimonta (so as to continue on the Via delle Bocchette Centrali the next day), walk down the obvious and well-marked path to Rifugio dei Brentei, 2182m in about an hour. Return to the Rifugio Vallesinella and the car park in a further 1.30 hours.

Normal via ferrata kit. Ice axe and crampons necessary at the start of the season

Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 2 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002

Technically not particularly difficult but exposed. Well-equipped throughout, it reaches 3000m. Wrap up warm if windy, especially during the first climb to Bocca del Tuckett.