Via Delenda Carthago - First Sella Tower
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Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
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Planetmountain
Delenda Carthago, established by Rolly Galvagni and Massimo Maceri in May 2002, offers elegant climbing up excellent slabs with difficulties up to 6b. Bolted on lead, there are some old pegs on the lower section of the route as this follows the "Bruno Bertoldi" climbed in 1977 and established by Callegarin & c. Given its height, short approach and quick descent, the Delenda Carthago is an ideal choice for days when the weather is unstable.
Reach Passo Sella from either Val di Fassa or Val Gardena.
AccessFrom Passo Sella take the path to the base of the South Face. The start is shared with the route Schober-Rossi, to the left of Via Trenker. 20 min.
ItineraryP1: shared with Schober-Rossi. 30m
P2: easy ramp, unprotected IV+. 25m
P3: 6b, very beautiful. Bolts and 2 pegs. 25m
P4: 6a, IV+/V. From the ledge procedd past pegs beyond the arete to the right of the rocks (2 pegs), then continue up the ramp (1 bolt) 30m
P5: 6a, 5+ beautiful overhanging pocketed face, then easier terrain. 20m
P6: 6a. Beautiful traverse right. 20m
P7: 5+/6a. Another beautiful pitch up a solid sab. Belay on the ledge used by the Normal route, 2 bolts. 20m
From the belay on the ledge beneath the summit follow the Normal route on the Prima Torre del Sella east (path, some grade I/II scramble). 40 minutes.
Gear11 quickdraws, some slings and kevlar threads. One 60m rope sufficient.
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