Via ferrata De Luca - Innerkofler - Monte Paterno

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Tre Cime di Lavaredo seen from the via ferrata Innerkofler / De Luca al Monte Paterno
Daniel Rogger
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
North
Ascent height difference
800m
Ferrata height difference
450m
Height
2744m
Difficulty
Medium
Time
4 ore
Period
From June to October depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
High
Departure
Rifugio Auronzo

Route



Monte Paterno is an excellent observation point for the impressive north faces of the Tre Cime, symbol of alpinism not only in the Dolomites but all over the world. The view from the ‘De Luca - Innerkofler’ via ferrata is exceptional as it leads first along the north west crest and east face to Monte Paterno’s Forcella dei Camosci to then finish on its 2744m summit. This fairly straightforward route leads through First World War tunnels and is best combined with the descent along the Sentiero delle Forcelle on the mountain’s east crest.

Getting there

From Cortina follow the road to Misurina via Passo Tre Croci. Then take the Tre Cime toll road up to Rifugio Auronzo (2298m).

Access

From Rifugio Auronzo take the path that leads easily beneath the south faces of the Tre Cime, first to Rifugio Lavaredo and Forcella Lavaredo and then to Rifugio Locatelli (1.30 hours). The Innerkofler ferrata starts just above this.

Itinerary

After the small, sausage-shaped tower which marks the start of the ferrata, enter a long tunnel, poorly lit by few windows. It climbs past steeper sections equipped with ladders and exits onto the east face at 2520 m. A vertical wall equipped with a fixed cable then leads to a ramp up towards Forcella di Camosci (2650m) and on to the Ferrata delle Forcelle. To reach the summit descend a short gully (south), and climb back up to a wall equipped with cables. Some effort is required to ascend this to terraces diagonally up to the left. The last easy stepped terrain leads to the summit cross directly opposite the outstanding north faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo.

Descent

From the summit descend back to Forcella dei Camosci and descend via the ascent route or head south down the narrow path to the base of the wall. Alternatively, for a complete traverse of the mountain, take the via ferrata Delle Forcelle which leads up and down a series of ledges using ladders and bridges, along the eastern crest of Monte Paterno down to the path at the base. From here return to Rifugio Pian di Cengia or take path no. 104 which links Rif. Locatelli and Rif. Auronzo.

Gear

Normal via ferrata equipment. Headtorch for tunnel.

Maps/Bibliography

Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 by John Smith and Graham Fletcher. Cicerone Press 2002

Difficulty

Not very difficult. If combined with the descent of the Ferrata delle Forcelle as far as both physical effort and landscape are concerned it is a varied and complete traverse. Given its popularity, watch out for falling stones in the higher sections. A torch is necessary in the tunnel.






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15/11/2009 Francesco Sensi
Bella e panoramica ferrata, stupenda la vista sulle tre cime di Lavaredo.Stupendi i laghi dei Piani e caratteristica la galleria del Paterno che porta fino al rifugio Locatelli
26/03/2009 Claudio Sacchi
Percorso di guerra interessante sia da Forc. Passaporto, sia dalla galleria (Salsicciotto di Francoforte) su a Forc. del Camoscio e in cima. Spettacolari le 3 Cime! E' auspicabile inserire Strada degli Alpini, Monte Popera 3045 m.,A. Roghel, Terrazza di Cima 11 e Croda Rossa di Sesto. Grüß Gott!!!
27/07/2007 Riccardo
bella passeggiata attrezzata, molto suggestive le gallerie scavate dai militari...notevole vista delle TreCime di Lavaredo... sentiero non ben segnato se percorso con partenza dalla forcella Lavaredo con arrivo al rif. Locatelli, mentre segnali ben visibili nell'altro senso di marcia!consiglio di partire di buon'ora per non trovare traffico e non prendersi pietre in testa (meglio avere il caschetto...) visto che spesso ci si trova al di sotto di altri escursionisti...
26/07/2005 mauro mauro
Ferrata facile ma indimenticabile per il panorama .Molto percorsa
Beauty
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
North
Ascent height difference
800m
Ferrata height difference
450m
Height
2744m
Difficulty
Medium
Time
4 ore
Period
From June to October depending on snow conditions.
Popularity
High
Departure
Rifugio Auronzo

Route



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