Mirror Wall, Greenland, Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll

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Ryu-shin - Mirror Wall

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Making the first ascent of 'Ryu-shin' on Mirror Wall in Greenland (Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva summer 2024)

Julia Cassou

Beauty

First ascent

Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll, August 2024

Planetmountain

Length

1000m

Difficulty

8b/R/A2+

Obligatory difficulty

7b+/R/A2+

Period

Summer

Departure

Scoresby Sund

Bold climb up the center of the Mirror Wall, established ground-up and in excellent style by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after a previous attempt in summer 2023 by Franco Cookson, Ben Ditto, Nicolas Favresse and Villanueva. Some sections were freed on the way back down after having reached the summit, including pitch 13 (the 2023 highpoint) with goes at 7c+ R. Only one bolt was added to the 2023 attempt, on a variation to pitch 9, to enable it to be climbed free.

Itinerary

See topo

Gear

Triple to quintuple rack to #2, double #3 & #4, one #5 & #6, wires, a good selection of birdbeaks (beaks and pitons are not in place except where stated), 1 RB for anchor 13.

Notes

The climb has been called Ryu-shin, in memory of their friend Keita Kurakami who passed away in June and who had originally been a member of the expedition.