The routes

55
Routes in archive
Mello's Moon
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Mello's Moon - Val di Mello
III/5+
Fun icefall which rarely comes into condition, marked by a thin drip which descends down the dark compact granite.
Merà Dimel
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Merà Dimel - Presolana - Anticima delle Quattro Matte
AI 4 M6
Superb alpine outing in a little known area of the Presolana. The route climbs the obvious recessed gully, past compact snow, hard to protect and mixed sections up corners and chimneys. Pro is not always easy to place. Pitches 5...
Mille splendidi soli
Climbing routes
Mille splendidi soli - Cima di Poia (Coster di destra)
TD+ 7a max, S2/III
Mille Splendidi Soli - A thousand splendid suns - ascends the SSE Face Coster di Destra di Cima Poia. Established ground-up, it breaches a series of slabs up excellent granite. The starting slabs and corners lead to the central slabs,...
Monte Rinalpi
Ski mountaineering
Monte Rinalpi
B/S Good skiers.
The ski mountaineering trip to Monte Rinalpi or, better still, Vallone di Rinalpi is certainly one of those outings that deserve putting in that little bit extra; the altitude gain and its overall length will almost definitely be rewarded with...
Oceano Irrazionale
Climbing routes
Oceano Irrazionale - Precipizio degli Asteroidi
VII
Oceano Irrazionale was first route to introduce the grade VII in the Central Alps. Irrational Ocean is a fantastic line up long vertical cracks and a prodigious traverse right, la "Tromba", to reach the suspended pulpit. Certainly one of the...
Ombelico del Mondo
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Ombelico del Mondo
III/4+
Beautiful icefall in a panoramic setting above the lake. Despite the orientation the ice is almost always terrible, rendering this climb extremely delicate.
Palon de la Mare
Ski mountaineering
Palon de la Mare
Difficult
A beautiful ascent via a varied itinerary in a grandiose setting. The summit offers a magnificent view onto the entire group and the 13 surrounding summits.
Pana
Climbing routes
Pana - Mongolfiera - Val di Mello
8b
Logical and beautiful line first ascended ground-up by Daniele Bianchi and Simone Pedeferri in June 2016 up the Mongolfiera face in Val di Mello, above Scoglio delle Metamorfosi. The route is composed of 9 pitches, of which the two crux...
Piantobaldo
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Piantobaldo - Presolana
WI4 M7 A1
"Piantobaldo" was the name Bruno "Camos” Tassi  gave to Roby Piantoni. After the first two pitches shared with Orobic Ice the route continues for a total of 11 pitches and 600m to climb the NW Face of Presolana Occidentale. This...
Pizzo Bernina
Ski mountaineering
Pizzo Bernina
OSA, S4
Pizzo Bernina is the easternmost fourthousander in the western Alps: due to the way its formed, it leads into a massif comprised of long ridges that extend all the way to Palù at Piz Roseg. The ski touring ascent follows...
Pizzo Tresero
Ski mountaineering
Pizzo Tresero
Difficult
A great, long and highly satisfying ascent. One of the classic outings in the Cevedale group.
Presolana Holiday
Climbing routes
Presolana Holiday - Presolana
7c+
A great climb established ground-up by Angelo Contessi and Leo Gheza between the routes Bosio and Le Medaglie di Matley.
Punta San Matteo
Ski mountaineering
Punta San Matteo
Difficult
One of the most popular, classic outings in this glacial environment. A long itinerary with significant height gain.
Red Bull
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Red Bull
III/4
The walk-in is long but nevertheless well worth the effort: the climbing is splendid and relatively straightforward, set in a wild and isolated habitat. The icefall Bondì Ghibinet can be seen opposite, suspended in the upper section of a deep...
Stairway to Heaven
Climbing routes
Stairway to Heaven - Dosso Guarda - Cima Bacchetta - Concarena
7c+
Stairway to Heaven was established with 10mm bolts, meaning that 8 quickdraws, a single rope and cordlette are all you need to repeat it. All the belay stations are equipped with maillon rapide for the abseils, but you’ll need to...


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