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Freudenschreck - Schreckhorn

Switzerland>Bernese Oberland>Bernese Alps>Schreckhorn - Wetterhorn chain>Schreckhorn

Thomas Senf

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Freudenschreck

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Beauty

First ascent

Thomas Senf, Martin Reber 07/2017

Thomas Senf

Orientation

Length

485 m

Difficulty

6a+

Period

Summer

Route

Outstanding rock climb up the Schreckhorn in a high alpine setting that provides an exceptional climbing experience in the Bernese Alps. The arête ascends the obvious pillar on the shoulder of the SW Ridge. From the shoulder the Schreckhorn summit can be reached easily be following the most beautiful section of the normal route. Ideal for stable sunny days with little snow.

Access
From the Schreckhornhütte follow the Normal Route to the Schreckhorn. From the Bergschrund on the Normal Route descend to the base of the pillar. The Schreckcouloir leads directly to the base of the pillar but is exposed to rockfall. Itinerary

L1: 6a, 45 m

L2: III, 45 m

L3: IV, 45 m

L4: 5a, 45 m

L5: 6a, 40 m

L6: 5c, 45 m

L7: 6a, 45 m

L8: 6a+, 35 m

L9: 5c, 40 m

L10: 5c, 50 m

L11: 5a, 50 m

Descent
Descent is possible by abseiling down the route. Gear
2x50m ropes, Camalot 0.1 - 3, 1 set of nuts + gear for crossing the glacier Notes
All belays are bolted but skill is required to place the trad gear along the pitches.

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Beauty

First ascent

Thomas Senf, Martin Reber 07/2017

Thomas Senf

Orientation

Length

485 m

Difficulty

6a+

Period

Summer

Link

https://www.thomassenf.ch

Route

Routes in the same mountain group

Show more in Schreckhorn - Wetterhorn chain