The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

87
Routes in archive
Patry classica
Patry classica - Valnontey - Cogne
II/3+,4
An extremely beautiful icefall, one of the most repeated routes in the valley and consequently often crowded. Not to be missed nevertheless. All belays have been equipped with with bolts. The first big drip leads to an amphitheatre, from where...
Pattinaggio artistico
Pattinaggio artistico - Gran Paradiso
II/3
Interesting ice fall which climbs a series of drips, never too sustained. The ambience is truly special, with views onto Mont Blanc. In particularly good seasons the first drip forms (50m II - 4+/5)
Punta Jolanda
Punta Jolanda - Monte Rosa
3
Another great creation by the legendary Alessandro Jaccod. On the second pitch do not belay on the old peg belay on the left, but continue on to the top and belay on the right (bolts).
Repentance Super
Repentance Super - Valnontey - Cogne
III/ 5°+
Repentance is composed of two distinct sections combined by a 60° snow and ice gully. The first section is more sustained and elegant while the second is easier (4°) and even in its own right would be a nice icefall....
Rêve Caché
Rêve Caché - Pointe d'Androsace
5+ MR 4c
A logical, varied, technical, long and demanding route. This difficulties can vary considerably depending on the conditions and with its 700m in length it can be regarded as a mini grand course. The first section is a winding couloir with...
Rikiteppa
Rikiteppa - Grand Combin
WI4 M teppa?
The Ollomont valley with its mixed climbs is a true paradise; away from the more famous crowded areas, below Mont Vela and Grand Combin are a flurry of icefalls immersed in absolute tranquility. Rikiteppa is located immediately to the left...
Sento puzza di bruciato
Sento puzza di bruciato - Piccolo San Bernardo
AI5
Great mixed climb established on 31/01/2023 by the mountain guides Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza.
Shampoo Dry
Shampoo Dry - Valle di Champorcher
M4 - M7
New dytooling and total dry crag designed by Enrico Bonino and bolted with the help of Hugues Bonnel (Odyssee Montagne) and Giancarlo Bazzocchi. Thanks also to Ilaria Sonatore, Marco Ghisio and Filippo Laurora.
Smooth Criminal
Smooth Criminal - Valle del Lys
IV/5/M7
Smooth Criminal is a mixed route that runs alongside the famous Thriller '92, one of the most beautiful icefalls in the Lys Valley, first climbed in 1991 by the very strong Alessandro Jaccod and Ezio Marlier. The new climb was initially conceived to connect...
Sodoma
Sodoma - Grand Combin
II/5
Ollomont and its icefalls are a real paradise, immersed in absolute peace and tranquility beneath Mont Vela and Grand Combin, far removed from the better known areas in the Aosta region. Sodoma is a beautiful icefall with a truly exciting...
Sole
Sole - Aiguille de la Brenva
WI5, M6
Ephemeral mixed modern climb uo the east face of Aiguille de la Brenva. Take gear to backup all belays.
Spirito di adattamento
Spirito di adattamento - Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort
WI5 X R, left variation WI4 M5
Spirito di adattamento climbs a gully up the east face of Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort. The climb was established by Denis Trento and Andrea Peron and a direct version was added by Trento with Marco Farina and Marco Majori.
The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route
The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route - Mont Blanc
ED
This is certainly one the absolute classic and popular routes in the Alps and leads to the summit of Mont Blanc via the highest rock pillar in the entire massif. Thanks to its altitude and orientation the tip of the...
The day after
The day after
I/3 - II/3+
The wild and beautiful Valle delle Laures, located within the mountain comunity Monte Emilius, was one of the first areas to be developed by ice climbers, and the first icefalls date back to the early 1980's. The icefalls are...
Thriller
Thriller - Valle del Lys
IV/5
Easily visible from the village of Gressoney la Trinité, Thriller '92 is one of the iconic ice climbs of the Lys Valley. Thanks to its altitude and favorable orientation, this icefall is climbable from early December until the end of...


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