The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

114
Routes in archive
La Piera
La Piera - Dlacion de col dela Pieres
IV, WI 5
Compared to the nearby Val Gardena, Vallunga is more suited to more adventurous ice climbers, those who love a pristine alpine ambient. Vallunga is a lonely valley, criss-crossed for a bit by a cross-country piste, marked by 600-700m high faces...
La Spada nella Roccia
La Spada nella Roccia - Marmolada
II/5
La Spada nella Roccia is a stupendous drip which forms from a cave. It was first climbed by Maurizio Gallo in the 1980's and represented an important step forward for piolet traction in the Western Alps.Sottoguda represents an obligatory ice...
La Stangata
La Stangata
5+
Beautiful icefall that climbs two distinct sections, first ascended by the Mountain Guides Patrick Ghezzi and Alessandro Lucchi on 5/2/2012 and repeated a few days later by Fabio Salvadei and Tommaso Andreolli.
La Strega + Evolution
La Strega + Evolution - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena
WI 5+ M9+
A really beautiful route to the right of La Piovra that offers some difficult mixed climbing. Something for experts. The first pitches that lead to the roof were climbed for the first time in 1992 by the brothers Cristoforo and...
Last Minute
Last Minute - Rienztal
WI 6
Last Minute high up in Rienztal is a slender drip exposed to the sun. All pegs used during the first ascent were left in-situ.
Madre Tierra
Madre Tierra - Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero
M6+, AI5+
Madre Tierra is a huge mixed climb up the NW Face of Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in the Zoldo Dolomites, first ascended by Diego Toigo and Santiago Padrós after a first attempt a week earlier with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero...
MFG
MFG - Rastentalfall
M9, WI6
The mixed climb MFG is located on the Rastentalfall, to the left of the classic "Crazy Diamond". The outing is a beautiful mixed climb that ascends, via a series of good hooks, thin cracks and hanging ice daggers.
Mur de Pisciadù Eisfall
Mur de Pisciadù Eisfall - Mur de Pisciadù
V+/M6/WI6
The entire route offers varied climbing in a marvelous setting, but should not be underestimated by any means.
Night Love
Night Love - Val d’Ansiei
WI5+
The ice climb Night Love rarely comes into condition but when it does, it offers fascinating climbing coupled with an extremely easy approach.
No Country for Old Men
No Country for Old Men - Koflerbach
M9 / WI5
Demanding mixed climb immediately to the left of Räuber Hotzenplotz and therefore to the left of the famous icefall Koflerbach close to Sand in Taufers. Pitches 3 and 4 offer some challenging mixed climbing past thin ice. The crux on...
Nunca con prisa, siempre con gana
Nunca con prisa, siempre con gana - Castello di Vallesinella
M9 WI5+
An incredible line up Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites, on absolutely amazing rock. Logical, elegant and short. The route follows a crack that takes plenty of pro and which allowed us to make the first ascent onsight.
Once in a lifetime
Once in a lifetime - Col Turont
WI6+, M8
Spectacular ice climb located opposite Jumbo Jet in Val de Lietres, Dolomitesi The route is also protected with bolts and pegs.
Para arriba, nach unten e bevilo!
Para arriba, nach unten e bevilo! - Antersass Zwischenkofel
M8 WI5
Established ground-up with bolts and pegs on 30/11 and 14/12 2019 by Santiago Padros, Daniel Ladurner and Mirco Grasso. This new mixed climb provides a technical outing in an incredible setting, past thin ice and excellent quality rock past pockets...
Pelmoon
Pelmoon - Monte Pelmo
M7, AI5, WI5
Mixed climb up the north of the Pelmo, established over 2 days. Pelmoon starts up the obvious gully to the right of Forca rossa gully. A bolt on the right gully wall has been placed at the start of the...
Pinocchio
Pinocchio - Tofane
M8+, WI 5
Mixed ice climb, protected by bolts on the lower section, put up in 2010 by Valentin Riegler and Hannes Lemayr and freed in winter 2013 by Martin and Florian Riegler.
Psyco Killer
Psyco Killer - Tofana di Mezzo
IV+, WI7-, D5
The icefall is clearly visible when descending from Forcella Col dei Bos (2331m) towards beautiful Val Travenanzes: look up westwards just before Malga Travenanzes (1965m) to see the drip.Psyco Killer is a "perfect" line which, when in condition, stands out...


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