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Burian - Paretone di Chevril

Italy>Valle d'Aosta>Western Alps>Cogne>Paretone di Chevril

Matteo Giglio, Mountain Guide

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Burian: François Cazzanelli climbing pitch 4

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

François Cazzanelli, Matteo Giglio 2018

Matteo Giglio, Mountain Guide

Orientation

Length

150 m

Difficulty

WI5 R M8

Route

Given the right conditions, the route is a very varied and fun outing that provides committing but never extremely dangerous climbing. The ambient feels like it’s on a big mountain face, despite it’s modest height. Since there’s no phone coverage the day feels all the more adventurous ... and is certainly free from social media and similar amenities :-)

Access
As for Mephistic ice, the start is circa 50m to the left. Calculate 30 minutes from Chevril. Itinerary

P1: M8, 30 m (4 bolts and 2 pegs - belay on bolt + peg + maillon)

P2: M6 WI4, 30 m (3 bolts - ice belay)

P3: WI3, 25 m (tree belay with sling and maillon on the right)

P4: M5 WI5, 30 m (ice or tree belay, no insitu gear)

P5: WI5, 35 m (tree belay sling + maillon)

Gear
Corde da 50 m, viti da ghiaccio anche corte, rinvii, 1 set di friends da .1 a .75 X4 BD, tutti i chiodi utilizzati durante la prima salita sono stati lasciati in posto. Maps/Bibliography
Effimeri barbagli: le cascate della Valle d’Aosta nella nuova guida di Matteo Giglio, Tipografia Valdostana