Archi del Vento, Monte Duranno, Friuli Dolomites, Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon, Luca Vallata

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Archi del Vento - Mount Duranno

Italy>Friuli Venezia Giulia>Dolomites>Carnic pre-Alps>Mount Duranno

Francesco Rigon, Mountain Guide

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The first ascent of 'Archi del Vento' on Naso del Monte Duranno in the Friuli Dolomites (Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon, Luca Vallata 24/12/2024)

Mirco Grasso / Francesco Rigon / Luca Vallata

Beauty

First ascent

Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon, Luca Vallata, 24/12/2023

Francesco Rigon, Mountain Guide

Length

450m (+ 200m to exit face 60° M3 max)

Difficulty

M7+ WI5 IV

Route

Archi del Vento on the north face the Naso del Duranno: "A strange journey of almost five hundred meters up ice drips, through holes, across snow fields, up chimneys, past arches and doors."

Access

From Rifugio Maniago (no winter bivouac) take path. 382 to Forcella della Spalla, descend down the other side after about fifty meters, traverse rightwards (east) and scramble back onto a wide ledge; follow this to the obvious start of the route, located in a frozen chimney to the right of an obvious spur.

Itinerary

See topo

Descent

From the end of the last pitch continue up classic terrain (60° max M3) and head left up to the fork between Naso and Duranno. From here, continue to the left on the southern face, gain 50 meters of altitude to reach the wide circular ledge. Follow this eastwards (left facing the valley) to rejoin the Normal route of Mt. Duranno. Descend this to reach Forcella del Duranno. From the col continue down path #374 and return to the Maniago hut.

Gear

A set of cams from 0.2 to 4 (BD sizes), 7 ice screws, a selection of pegs and a hammer