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Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
22/01/2010 - Alpinism
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed...
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
20/11/2009 - Alpinism
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
Lino Lacedelli, 84, passed away in Cortina, Italy this morning. In 1954 the member of the famous Scoiattoli mountaineering club became the first person to reach the summit of K2, together with Achille Compagnoni.
Nemjung South Face for Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff
11/11/2009 - Alpinism
Nemjung South Face for Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff
From 11 - 16 October the French mountaineers Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff established a new route on the South Face of Nemjung 7140m in Nepal.
Roby Piantoni
16/10/2009 - Alpinism
Roby Piantoni
Manuel Lugli remembers Roby Piantoni, the Italian alpinist from Bergamo who lost his life yesterday on Shisha Pangma, Tibet.
More about Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and the questions of style
03/06/2009 - Alpinism
More about Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and the questions of style
The letter by Andreas Dick concerning 'A question of style: Meroi, Pasaban, Kaltenbrunner and all the 14 8000m peaks' and the reply by the author of the article, Manuel Lugli. Furthermore we've published the thoughts by Cristina Castagna, the Italian...
Kangchenjunga, summits and abandoned attempts
19/05/2009 - Alpinism
Kangchenjunga, summits and abandoned attempts
On 18/05 at 2.30 pm Ferran Latorre from Spain reached the summit of Kangchenjunga. His companions Edurne Pasaban, Juanito Oiarzabal, Asier Izguirre and Alex Chicon summited circa two hours later, at 4:45pm. The Italians Nives Meroi and Romano Benet have...
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
11/02/2009 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
07/12/2008 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
On 2 December the Italians Matteo Bernasconi and Fabio Salini carried out a fast ascent of the Via dei Ragni on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia. This route was also climbed the previous day by Rolando Garibotti and...
Iceland ice climbing expedition report
28/03/2007 - Alpinism
Iceland ice climbing expedition report
At the end of February Albert Leichtfried, Markus Bendler, Ines Papert and Audrey Gariepy travelled to Iceland to explore its potential in memory of their friend Harald Berger who died tragically in December 2006.
Amico Fragile: Sardina multi-pitch 7c+/8a
05/10/2006 - Climbing
Amico Fragile: Sardina multi-pitch 7c+/8a
In August the Italians Marco Vago and Simone Pedeferri completed their new route up M.te Donneittu (Codula de Luna, Sardinia) called Amico Fragile and graded 7c+/8a .
Todra Gorge Morocco first ascent
04/04/2006 - Climbing
Todra Gorge Morocco first ascent
Cesare Bugada, Simone Pedeferri and Marco Vago, establish "Le berbere et la gazelle" 7c+ on the Poisson Sacret wall, Todra gorge, Morocco
Roda di Vael: Moulin rouge dance for Tondini and Sartori
22/03/2005 - Alpinism
Roda di Vael: Moulin rouge dance for Tondini and Sartori
On 17 March Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori carried out the third ascent (and first winter ascent) of “Moulin Rouge” on the red-faced Roda di Vael in the Dolomites, first climbed in June 2002 by Oswald Celva and Christof Hainz.
Russian success for Piolet d'Or 2004, House wins spectators award.
28/02/2005 - Events
Russian success for Piolet d'Or 2004, House wins spectators award.
The prestigious Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagne Magazine was won by the Russian team for its ascent of Jannu. Steve House won the spectators award for his solitary ascent of K7.
Free Itaca nel Sole, Valle dell'Orco
20/05/2003 - Interviews
Free Itaca nel Sole, Valle dell'Orco
Cristian Brenna and Marzio Nardi free the historic Itaca in Valle dell'Orco. The photos and story by Andrea Gallo.
Helly Hansen Award for mountaineers
11/02/2001 - Alpinism
Helly Hansen Award for mountaineers
As in 2000, Helly Hansen and the American Alpine Club will assign the Helly Hansen Mountain Adventure Awards 2001 to three small exploratory expeditions
The Empire strikes back, M11 repeated by Mauro Bubu Bole
22/02/2000 - Alpinism
The Empire strikes back, M11 repeated by Mauro Bubu Bole
"The Empire strikes back", M11 repeated by Bubu Bole in the Haston Cave, Valsavarenche, Val di Cogne, Italy.