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Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means
09/08/2016 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means
German alpinists Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz and photographer Klaus Fengler have just returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where, on the West Face of The Turret, they managed to repeat and add new free variations to Nuvualik, the climb established in June 1995 by Warren Hollinger, Jerry Gore...
Via Da Pozzo - Bachmann on Cima Marcoira, Dolomites
08/08/2016 - Alpinism
Via Da Pozzo - Bachmann on Cima Marcoira, Dolomites
Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide from Cortina, introduces Via Da Pozzo - Bachmann, first ascended in 2002 by Walter Bachman and Paolo Da Pozzo up the NE Face of Cima Marcoira, Sorapis Dolomites.
Sir Chris Bonington at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
07/08/2016 - Events
Sir Chris Bonington at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
On Sunday, August 7 the legendary British mountaineer Sir Chris Bonington will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains. The evening begins at 21:15 and will be hosted by Vinicio Stefanello of planetmountain.com.
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
03/08/2016 - Alpinism
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
Interview with Simon Richardson who, together with Michael Rinn, made the first ascent of Diamond Ridge (1600m, 5c, AO) from 28 - 30 July 2016. This new alpine climb breaches the SSE Face of Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc massif).
Bastava un Piumino, new rock climb in the Brenta Dolomites
01/08/2016 - Alpinism
Bastava un Piumino, new rock climb in the Brenta Dolomites
In the Brenta Dolomites Andrea Simonini and Gianluca Beliamoli have made the first ascent of 'Bastava un Piumino' (180m, 6c), a new multi-pitch climb on a tower they have named Pilastro Canino, next to Cima d'Agola in Val d'Ambiez. Simonini provides the report.
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
30/07/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
On 12 July 2016 Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič reached the summit of Broad Peak. Two weeks later they climbed the Northwest Ridge of Gasherbrum IV, reaching the North Summit (7900m) on 26 July 2016.
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
27/07/2016 - Alpinism
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
On 17 and 18 July 2016 Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climbed a new route up the immense SW Face of Cima Busazza (Civetta group, Dolomites). The 800m climb breaches difficulties up to VII/VII+, includes a short section of A2 aid, and is protected by trad gear and few pegs.
Dolomites rockfall between III & IV Bastione de Mondeval
22/07/2016 - Alpinism
Dolomites rockfall between III & IV Bastione de Mondeval
Francesco Leardi warns of recent rockfall that has affected the area between the Third and Fourth Bastione di Mondeval in the Lastoni di Formin group, Dolomites.
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
22/07/2016 - Alpinism
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari climbs the North-West Arête, also known as Via W.H. on the West face of the Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites). This classic outing was first climbed on 09/05/1971 by Heini Holzer and Sieglinde Walzl.
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years old. Both were expert alpinists. Iannilli was definitely one of...
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Jonathan Siegrist’s Swiss sending spree
15/07/2016 - Climbing
Jonathan Siegrist’s Swiss sending spree
American sports climber Jonathan Siegrist has made the first ascent of Hyper Finale 9a at Rawyl in Switzerland.
Only one climbing God: the grade!
14/07/2016 - Climbing
Only one climbing God: the grade!
Motivated by debates on facebook, the Italian climber and photographer Riky Felderer shares his point of view about an issue that knows no end: climbing grades.
Video: Pirmin Bertle climbing Meiose at Charmey
13/07/2016 - Climbing
Video: Pirmin Bertle climbing Meiose at Charmey
The video of Pirmin Bertle and his first ascent of Meiose, a sports climb at Charmey in Switzerland, for which the German climber suggested 9b.
Sachi Amma, Yuji Hirayama and Adam Ondra at Flatanger
07/07/2016 - Climbing
Sachi Amma, Yuji Hirayama and Adam Ondra at Flatanger
At Flatanger - Hanshellern in Norway Sachi Amma has repeated Thor’s Hammer 9a+, while Yuji Hirayama has redpointed Odin’s Eye 8c+ and Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of Right of Passage, 9a.

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