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Melloblocco 2011 - the bouldering game in Val Masino
29/04/2011 - Events
Melloblocco 2011 - the bouldering game in Val Masino
More than 2200 people have pre-registered for the 8th Melloblocco, the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting due to take place in Val Masino, Italy from 5 - 8 may 2011.
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
19/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
Two Piolets d'Or were awarded on 15 April in Chamonix, France, during the IXX Piolet d'Or 2011: to the Greenland Big Walls by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Bob Shepton and to the ascent up Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama from...
Fred Nicole, seek and you shall find
05/04/2011 - Climbing
Fred Nicole, seek and you shall find
Two beautiful boulder problems, Mandragore and Portici, established by the Swiss climber Fred Nicole close to Domodossola and Cresciano.
Supercrack of the Desert at Indian Creek
01/04/2011 - Climbing
Supercrack of the Desert at Indian Creek
The video of the historic first ascent of Supercrack of the Desert, at Indian Creek in Utah (USA), established in 1976 by Earl Wiggins, Ed Webster and Bryan Becker.
Action Directe, the video of Gabriele Moroni
23/03/2011 - Climbing
Action Directe, the video of Gabriele Moroni
The video of Gabriele Moroni, the only Italian to have redpointed Action Directe, first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
16/02/2011 - Alpinism
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
Cascata Per Leo, rare icefall on Sorapiss, Dolomites
29/12/2010 - Alpinism
Cascata Per Leo, rare icefall on Sorapiss, Dolomites
On 21 December Giuseppe 'Beppe' Ballico and Marco Milanese climbed "Cascata Per Leo" (270m, IV, WI 5+ XR) a beautiful icefall which rarely comes into condition on the SW Face of Croda Marcora (Sorapiss, Dolomites).
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007...
Maurizio, Manolo, Mago
06/10/2010 - Climbing
Maurizio, Manolo, Mago
Eternit, the slab. Andrea Gallo and a day's climbing with Maurizio Manolo Zanolla at Baule (Dolomites, Italy)
Action Directe 9a climbed by Gabriele Moroni, too
18/04/2010 - Climbing
Action Directe 9a climbed by Gabriele Moroni, too
Gabriele Moroni and the first Italian ascent of Action Directe 9a, the route freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and which still today represents an important test for sport climbing.
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
23/02/2010 - Competitions
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has ratified and recognised the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) during its Plenary Session at Vancouver, Canada. As the President of the IFSC Marco Scolaris explains, this is a fundamental step for sport climbing in its bid to become an Olympic sport.
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
20/11/2009 - Alpinism
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
Lino Lacedelli, 84, passed away in Cortina, Italy this morning. In 1954 the member of the famous Scoiattoli mountaineering club became the first person to reach the summit of K2, together with Achille Compagnoni.
Dreamtime, a dream which vanished for a second only
16/11/2009 - Climbing
Dreamtime, a dream which vanished for a second only
Michele Caminati talks about the broken hold on Dreamtime, the legendary boulder problem established by Fred Nicole in 2000 at Cresciano, Switzerland.
Goodbye Riccardo Cassin
07/08/2009 - Alpinism
Goodbye Riccardo Cassin
Riccardo Cassin passed away last night at his home in Resinelli at the foot of his beloved Grigna mountain. Cassin was one of the world's all time absolute mountaineering legends. He had celebrated his 100th birthday on 2 January this year.

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