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Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
30/12/2011 - Interviews
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
Interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, currently on their way to Nanga Parbat to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
29/04/2011 - Alpinism
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
On Thursday 28 April Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Erhard Loretan died in a climbing accident while ascending Grünhorn in the Bernse Alps. Loretan was one of the greatest alpinists of the modern era, the third person to have climbed...
59th TrentoFilmFestival, select events
27/04/2011 - Events
59th TrentoFilmFestival, select events
The 59th Trento Film Festival takes place from 28 April to 8 May to celebrate mountains, society, cinema and literature. Numerous mountaineering personalities gather in Italy's Trento including Messner, Herzog, Bonatti, Mazeaud, Erri De Luca, Mauro Corona, Neri Marcoré, Enrico...
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
19/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
Two Piolets d'Or were awarded on 15 April in Chamonix, France, during the IXX Piolet d'Or 2011: to the Greenland Big Walls by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Bob Shepton and to the ascent up Mount...
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the...
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
14/02/2011 - Alpinism
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
On Sunday 13 February Fabio Valseschini from Lecco, Italy, completed the first solo winter ascent of the great Via dei Cinque di Valmadrera (1350m, VI+ A3) on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites. After 7 bivvies on the mountain and...
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
07/11/2010 - Interviews
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
Interview with Edurne Pasaban, the Basque alpinist who has climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by reinhold messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola...
Christian Stangl confesses: his K2 summit fruit of the imagination
08/09/2010 - Alpinism
Christian Stangl confesses: his K2 summit fruit of the imagination
Christian Stangl, the Austrian alpinist who had claimed the only K2 ascent in this pre-monsoon season, admitted yesterday to not having reached the summit, as had been contested by a part of the mountaineering community.
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
02/08/2010 - Events
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
4 evenings and 4 great mountaineering stories as told by Valery Babanov, Hans Kammerlander, Silvio Mondinelli and Stevie Haston. The evenings will be introduced by Vinicio Stefanello, editor of PlanetMountain.com.
Shisha Pangma: 14th 8000er for Edurne Pasaban, 11th for Mario Panzeri
17/05/2010 - Alpinism
Shisha Pangma: 14th 8000er for Edurne Pasaban, 11th for Mario Panzeri
On 17 May Edurne Pasaban from Spain reached the summit of Shisha Pangma, completing her tour of the 14 highest mountains in the world. She summited along with Italian Mario Panzeri (11th 8000er).
Miss Oh Eun-Sun crowns all 8000ers, but one alpinist still in difficulty on Annapurna.
28/04/2010 - Alpinism
Miss Oh Eun-Sun crowns all 8000ers, but one alpinist still in difficulty on Annapurna.
On 27/04/2010 the South Korean alpinist Miss Oh Eun-Sun reached the summit of Annapurna and, in doing so, has become the first woman in the world to climb all fourteen 8000ers. In the meantime though an alpinist is in trouble...
Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
21/04/2010 - Alpinism
Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the North Face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. reinhold messner received the lifetime achievement award;...
Dolomite passes, possible traffic limitations
01/04/2010 - Environment
Dolomite passes, possible traffic limitations
Reducing the traffic in the Dolomites, an initiative promoted by the Governor the the Trentino region, the SAT, the CAI (Italian Mountaineering Club), the Bolzano Mountaineering Club and also reinhold messner.