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Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
24/12/2009 - Climbing
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told by Heinz Mariacher and Mario Prinoth.
Echo Wall, Ben Nevis, by Dave Macleod
15/12/2009 - Climbing
Echo Wall, Ben Nevis, by Dave Macleod
Dave Macleod analyses his ascent of Echo Wall on Ben Nevis. Climbed in July 2008, this terrifying route represented a new level of trad climbing for the 29 year old Scottish climber.
The Search, a climbing quest by Mario Prinoth
11/12/2009 - Climbing
The Search, a climbing quest by Mario Prinoth
This autumn Italian climber Mario Prinoth discovered, bolted and freed The Search, a 35m line up the smooth limestone face close to Capanna Bill on the Marmolada, Dolomites.
Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
02/12/2009 - Alpinism
Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
From 20 - 22 November the Italians Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Meli and Francesco Cantù carried out the first ascent of "Ramri Keti" (1100m, WI5+/M7/5a) up the North Face of Hama Jomjuma (5970m, Khumbu, Nepal).
Kilian Fischhuber repeats Des Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+
23/11/2009 - Climbing
Kilian Fischhuber repeats Des Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+
Kilian Fischhuber from Austria has repeated Des Kaisers neue Kleider (250m, 8b+) on the Wilder Kaiser, Austria.
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
03/11/2009 - Climbing
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
Interview with Riccardo Scarian who on 27/10/2009 climbed the second half of Masada on Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites), and freed the crux pitch at 8b.
Greenland climbing Plaisir 2009
02/11/2009 - Climbing
Greenland climbing Plaisir 2009
In July Mountain Guides Michele Maggioni and Daniele Bernasconi established two new routes around Disko Island, Qioqe Peninsula, Greenland
Selvaggio Blu, 20 year anniversary of the most famous trek in Sardinia
21/10/2009 - Environment
Selvaggio Blu, 20 year anniversary of the most famous trek in Sardinia
Marcello Cominetti retraces the twenty year history of Selvaggio Blu, the path which goes right through the wild and poetic heart of Sardinia.
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
08/10/2009 - Climbing
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
On 26/27/08/2009 Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira carried out the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (550m 8b) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Rocklands bouldering, Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar
05/10/2009 - Climbing
Rocklands bouldering, Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar
In August 2009 Kilian Fischhuber from Austria freed Airstar Fb8b, a long-standing problem at Rocklands, South Africa.
Yuji Hirayama, Cobra Crack and back to his roots
29/09/2009 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama, Cobra Crack and back to his roots
Interview with Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama, who on 15/09/2009 made the sixth ascent of Cobra Crack at Squamish, Canada.
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
Interview with Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic who on 20/09/2009 made the first ascent of an old Alexander Huber project, Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall in Tyrol, Austria.
Andreas Proft interview – a free spirit
22/09/2009 - Climbing
Andreas Proft interview – a free spirit
Interview with Andreas Proft, the German climber who has managed to climb up to 8b without climbing shoes.
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
08/09/2009 - Climbing
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian Direct on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.

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